Not sure if this could go under tech talk or under Target archery. Both seem appropriate. I've fixed the slipping peep sight. I've zeroed in my site pretty well. I know when I get tired my shots tend to drop in a straight line. I know that my bow will deflect or twist to the left. I've filmed myself shooting quite a few times and with a few exceptions I remain consistent. Here's my issue. At 10yards I break arrows and split my vanes. At 20 I group really well maybe off by 1/2 inch or so. At 40 its about a 6 inch spread. 50 yards is obviously wider. I'm set at 60lbs and shoot about 310fps. My thoughts are it's either my arrows which are not the most engineered. Or the fact that I cannot see my site properly through my peep. (I cannot see the bubble or the site tape inside of my Peep. and I am using a 1/4inch peep). what are your thoughts on this issue? OUTDOOR RANGE minimal Weather and wind interference.
Off the cuff, without being a jerk my vote is the issue is you. Distance amplifies mistakes. At 10 yards a sway cannot be seen at 60 you are covering 10 inch pie plate with your pin movement. If I were you I would just continue to shoot at distances you can group. If you can touch your thumb and index around your group move out ten yards further. Only moving on when you are ready. Good luck, hope this helps
I've been having some challenges here this year. Things I've been working on that have helped some: * consistency of peep/site alignment (a very minor diff on size, so I align at 12 of my sight housing) * pull through the shot * riser pressure - in getting just a bit of torque when I grip, even with a finger or two. * ensure a level bubble, especially at distance * face pressure of the anchor. I did manage about a 3" group at 45yds tonight, but I was off a click or two right.
T Thats really helpful. Any ideas on what to do about my site picture? I can’t even tell if the peep is inside the site tape or just on it. The only way I can see the bubble and sight tape is if I pull the whole bow closer to my face. Is this an issue of too short of an axel length? I cannot extend the sight out any further. I can drop the peep more
To determine where the peep should be you need to draw your bow with your eyes closed, anchor and open your eyes. The sight line will tell you if it should go up or down. As for the clarity you can try this. https://shop.gohunt.com/products/ha...QQp8-roHsT4hqlr9VpBRIYethosnlgGsaAn1lEALw_wcB You also can try a smaller pin.
I really like to size the peep to the housing of the sight frame that houses the pins. (I avoid square sight frames for this reason) I'm not sure what you mean about the sight tape, I would have to have a huge peep to have my sight tape in view along with my pins and bubble. At full draw, I make sure the diameter of the peep allows me to just fit the round sight housing inside the outside diameter of my peep field of view. Besides the diameter of the peep, you can also adjust this fit if you have a dovetail sight mount by moving the sight in/out from the bow riser as needed. I used to shoot a very small peep diameter, 1/8", and just centered the pin I wanted. This worked fine for me too, but not so much now that my eyes aren't 20/20 anymore, I started having issues in low light with the smaller diameter. I did find it odd for a while to center the sight housing, as the pin used for whatever distance is needed isn't centered in my peep field of view this way, but have gotten used to it. Now checking that the housing is centered in my peep diameter is just another reference I check, same as glancing at the bubble before starting my release procedure. As far as arrows, have you nock tuned them? If unfamiliar with nock tuning, then nock tuning will definitely help you out. It is a good idea to number your arrows so you can quickly identify problem arrows. I just mark them 1 through 12 with a fine point Sharpie on the indicator vane. How well your bow is tuned really makes a difference in group size at distance as well. If you go to a shop to have your bow paper tuned, be sure to bring a few of your arrows with you. Then make sure YOU are the one that does the shooting while the Tech makes adjustments. Slight differences in form can really change how the arrow comes out of a bow between you and other people, it is best to have the bow tuned to YOUR shot process and not some Tech at a bow shop. It will also immediately show if arrow flight problems are from some poor form habit you have, if any. I will echo Fix and say that groups at distance will show form issues very quickly. You have to be doing everything very consistently to shoot well as distance increases. I get far and away better groups when I can simply "trust my float" and use a shot method where the actual release of the arrow is a surprise to me when it happens. Not saying a command type shot method can't be accurate, but if you are command shooting because your pin float is very erratic, then your form is the first suspect along with proper draw length. Pin float shouldn't be herky-jerky are have a ton of drift distance away from POA. It should be fairly slow and stay pretty close to POA.
Thank you for that info @Mod-it . By sight tape I mean the white (or colored) tape that circles the pin housing. I use a 5 pin sight. I've been told by some of the coaches at the range that I should be able to see the bubble and the site tape within my peep sight. I took some time yesterday to mark my arrows and learned that I have 1 that seems to jump, I don't know how else to describe it but it was always hitting high. 2 that dropped dramatically and one that wobbles. The Maxima Red with blazer vanes was like a laser at 40. and fairly accurate. I think some of my grouping error is in my arrows and the accuracy is on me and my form. My bow has NOT been tuned since I got it. I think that is a good next step before I lose my mind any further.
Gotcha on the sight tape. By the name sight tape (I'd call what you're talking about a sight ring) I was thinking of a tape marked for distances on a single pin sight. You absolutely should be able to align your sight with your peep sight view and still see the bubble. I don't bother with aligning to the sight ring and just do the whole frame of the sight. Even if your peep is a bit big, as long as you always align some portion of the sight to the peep view you'll be fine. For instance, align the top curve of the sight housing or sight ring to the top curve of your peep view. If your peep is too small of a diameter to do that, then either the peep diameter should be increased or the sight moved out farther from the riser. Moving the sight out isn't an option without a dovetail type sight base. Are you by chance shooting with different kinds of arrows? You make a reference to "the Maxima Red" flying nice, makes me wonder if you have different kinds of arrows you're trying to shoot groups with? You want same weight, same length, same vane arrows if you want to shoot arrows that all fly the same.
I am using the same arrows, I just have one Maxima red. It has the most stable flight. All the other arrows are "TopPoint" from Amazon. NOT getting those again.
If you don't have a scale that measures in grains, ask the archery shop to weigh each arrow. When setting up my arrows, I weigh components (points and shafts w/inserts) separately...and sort by weights. They're usually close, but I'll match light shafts/inserts with heavier points and vice versa...focs vary ever so slightly, but all arrows are very close on weight.
