Alright... the all time contradicting subject, paper tuning. My bow shot exceptional for years but this year I noticed I wasn't quite getting the accuracy I have the previous years. Never could get this bow to paper tune bullet holes.. never... Mathews Z7 Left Handed 70# - 26.5" draw 340 FMJ - 100gr field tips. cut to 25-3/4" Trophy taker Smack down rest Checked ATA and it was at 29-7/8". Decided to reset everything. Reset center shot to 13/16", untwisted buss cable to get 30" ATA. Twisted both string loops on bottom cam to re-center string in tuning hole. Straightened the idler wheel back. applied twists in idler wheel yolk to make the string come off of it straight at full draw. Getting knock right tear 3/4" every shot, from 6' away from paper. Bare shaft and fletched shaft. Moved rest both ways trying to correct it, still getting same tear. Paid attention to my form and bow hand, same tear. I do all my bow work and own an Apple archery bow press. Cant for the life of me get this thing to paper tune and never have. I feel like even when I change idler wheel lean It does not change the tear. Do I give up on paper tune all together and just focus on walk back tuning?
Try stepping back to ten or even fifteen feet. I am a lefty as well with the same draw length. I am pulling about 65lbs using fmj 400 spine. I found that at 6 yards I get a tear every time but when I step back to 10 yards I get a perfect bullet hole. Your arrow doesn’t have time to recover that close.... I bet that will do it.
I agree step back a bit farther. See what you get. My z7 is sitting at 29 3/4 ata but, draw weight is good and so is the brace height. So no worries. You may also have to adjust the yolk. Had to do that to mine to get rid of any left or right tears. Good luck Sent from my SM-N960U using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
