My field points are hitting dead on from 20 to 60yds, but my broad heads( spitfire double crosses) are hitting 4 inches high. Any recommendations on how to remedy? I am shooting 30in draw length 28.5 in arrows 350 spine Easton FML with brass inserts (372 grains without broadhead)
Do a google search for paper tuning and broadhead tuning. You can make a paper tuner by cutting a hole in the bottom of a box big enough for you to shoot through and tape freezer paper over the hole. It maybe that your rest is a little high but by shooting it through paper at 3 to 5 yards. If you cant shoot through paper them shoot a broadhead and then a field point. if the broadhead is high move your rest very slightly down and repeat until they are close. Do this at 20 years to start. Dont worry about where the arrows are hitting on the target as long as they are grouping and you are hitting the target. Once they are close you can then adjust your sight accordingly to get back on point. If you cant move your rest for up/down adjustments the next thing to do is move the nocking point. if the broadhead is shooting high you will need to move your nocking point up. Hope that helps.
Paper tuning with the broadhead on there? I have shot with rage and they hit right where my field points do. I just don’t trust rage after losing several bucks with good hits.
Raise nock point or lower rest A TINNY BIT (1/64" @ a time, but first check cam timing and for arrow/rest contact. Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
I know this might sound stupid but something I noticed on my fixed blade g5 strikers I have been shooting my field points with odd feather up when I nock it and they are dead on but with broadheads they was shooting high I flipped it to odd feather down and they are right with the field points. This may be the stupidest thing anyone has said on here but that's what I found out today when shooting could be a coincidence but it worked for me just sharing my experience
I have always moved my rest small in increments. The field points won't move as much as the broadheads will and that has worked for me!
Not sure how you tuned your bow or your cam system. I never tune a bow for broadheads without paper tuning , whether bare shaft or vaned arrows, then do a 50 yard walk back. The obvious answer to your statement is jockey with your rest or nocking point. But if your getting a bullethole thru paper and walking back it’s hitting straight up and down, I’d might scrap the broadheads before busting up a greatly tuned bow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Do a bareshaft test: Take 3 fletched arrows and 3 bareahafts. Place your target at shoulder height (very important). Stand at 10 yards and shoot all 6 in a group. You can shoot spots if you want but single group would be best. 1. Compare point of impact. I like to address this first because you might realize you do that have the right spine e or may need to cut your shafts to get more so adjusting nock high/low up/down right now is not important. 2. Now that you have corrected point of impact(not covered here, beyond the scope of this discussion) you can address any nock up/down/left/right. What's key here for you, assuming you've already don't a walkback or paper tune is that you'll likely see that your flecthing is hiding something you need to address that is showing up when you put broadheads on. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Have you tried indexing (lining up) your broadhead blades with your fletchings? Sometimes and I stress SOMETIMES this will correct the flight by making it more aerodynamic. It worked for me on some thunder head 100s. I took and married broadhead to arrows and the screwed in my broadhead and fetched the arrow accordingly
