Going to try to get started converting my 3D setup over to my hunting setup this evening. Need to swap arrows and tune the rest, install the quiver and reconfigure my stabilizers to start. After I get it tuned to my hunting arrows and get a new sight tape installed and sight in I'll then shoot my broadheads and see what if anything I need to do from there. Probably stretch the rest and arrow tuning out over a couple / few days.
Hey Guys - my name is Jared and I’m from SE MI. I’m 31, married, with 3 kids. Twin 4 yo gals Ava and Harper and a 2 month old baby boy Easton. I’m in packaging sales and love to bow hunt. I’ve been lucky enough to contribute a good buck to my team over the last 4-5 years so I hope to continue the streak. In 2017 I purchased my own little 15 acres and am ate up doing habitat work for deer. I’m not sure I’ve been on a team with any of you before but I did meet Clinton at the RAM bar with many of the BHOD guys during the 2017 ATA Show. I can officially say he is a good dude. Let’s all have a good time and not forget to shoot does!!! Easy 50 pts.
I’ll be in units 37, 45, and 28 depending on where the elk are Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
I’m thinking about picking up a pack of Dirtnap broadheads soon... anyone ever use them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have never shot them before. But I am a big fan of that style of broadhead. I shot Solid broadheads for a couple years and they were the best flying head I ever shot. They looked just like the dirt naps Sent from my SM-G900V using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Hey Buckeye, would you mind doing a quick list of process you go thru to tune/setup a bow? It seems like everyone does it different. Also if you have any pointers for halon 6 to look out for while tuning. If you don't have time that's fine also. My halon has been very sensitive to changes and feel like I'm constantly messing with it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Well especially with our new MI regulations. Not a lot where you’re at I assume? I’ve just noticed the teams that win usually shoot a doe per guy.
I grabbed a pack today and at 30+ they weren’t flying very good at all... threw my QAD exodus ones back on and I was shooting perfect out to 60... I think I’ll return them I’m stay with the QADs. Bums me out because I had high hopes for them because I really like the style also Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That stinks! I was hoping they would work out. I was going to give them a shot if they worked out. Carbon express also make a head like that, it's called XT 4. Have heard some good reviews on it and they are really cheap! Sent from my SM-G900V using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Honestly I am very particular about my stuff it will be difficult to type it all out, though I will try. First thing is set the bow to my draw length and desired draw weight. Next the bow goes into a draw board to check for cam timing. Make the needed adjustments (they are never perfect from the factory). Next check for cam lean. From there set my rest / rest linkage and tie in my nock sets and D loop so the center of my arrow passes through the center of the berger button. Eyeball center shot. Shoot through paper make any small adjustments to the rest if needed. The above always has my field tips shooting great. When it comes to broadheads, if needed I adjust the rest to group them with my field points. Sometimes they group together with no adjustments, some times the windage will be off. I adjust the rest little by little to bring the groups together. Sometimes I french tune or walkback tune my broadheads if I am having issues getting the broadheads to fly. I have owned 3 halon 30s and one 32. One of the 30s would not shoot fixed heads no matter what I did (never shot broadheads with the other Halons, they were all 3D bows). The broadheads few about 6 inches right of my field points and nothing I did would close the gap much. Cam rotation and timing was on,there was a little cam lean so I swapped the top hats around shimming the cams over etc etc but that didnt fix it either. Ended up just buying Rage Hypos that year, it was 2016.
Thanks man for the brake down. That's what I'm experiencing right now with my bow. I'm trying to practice farther distance with fixed head for my western trip, and was having trouble. I have done everything you said trying fix it over the summer expect mess with cam lean. Right now I got it cleaned up pretty well, but I was just trying to make it perfect. But looks like others have had same problems with this bow. I was constantly getting 8" to left at 40 yards, and same thing nothing was fixing it. Found out I was getting a slight nock pinch and that cleaned it up alot. I tied in 2 soft nock points with about 1/8" gap under the nock, the tied d loop outside of them. That was the biggest improvement I have found yet. Sent from my SM-G900V using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
I'd check cam lean. It is very easy to do. Grab an arrow. Lay it on the side of your cam (a flat area) and have the arrow protruding up or down your string (laying parallel to the bow string). Pay attention the the gap between your arrow and the bow string. It should be consistent for the most part from the cam toward the end of the arrow, a little bit of run out can be expected. Now do the same on the other cam, the gap between the arrow and bow string should be pretty much the same off each cam. If they aren't you need to have your top hats (cam shims) swapped to correct it. And What rest are you using? If it has linkage that ties into your down cable... if the linkage is a little to short it will pull your cams out of rotation at full draw and cause erratic broadhead flight. It does not take much torque in your cables to really mess with your broadhead flight. You can try lengthening your linkage cord to see if that helps your broadhead flight.
I have the Hamskea, it's limb driven. I have checked it that way last year and it was good, but I will check it again. Do you see a need to check it at full draw? I don't have a draw board. A Mathews tech showed me the arrow trick a few years ago, it's really helped me when I had my bowtech and could yoke tune it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Yea hunting the big woods I usually have more deerless hunts than not. I can still shoot 2 deer either through party hunting or heading further south to a different area of the state. I agree shooting does is a huge part of the contest. Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
I don’t hunt big woods and have plenty of deer less hunts lol. I’ve thinking off putting out a small fall food plot. I can’t till or anything where I have permission to hunt and it is pretty shaded. Any of you guys have any luck with any no till food plots? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
