As the title says I'm having issues with nosie from my cable slide. I have put a picture below of the "groves" it's making on the slide bar. Any advice on how to "fix" this? Should I be oiling the guide? String wax maybe? You can also see on the cable side where it's rubbing wax off the cables. Any help please. It isn't noticable when drawing quickly, but when drawing slowly you can hear it creeking. Thanks for any help. God bless.
You can try to clean the guide rod but the best option is to get a Teflon replacement cable guide. I had to do the same thing on my old bow. Stock plastic one started squeaking bad but the replacement did the trick. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Josh, I had the same problem on my E32. I replaced the factory cable slide with a Saunders Hyper-glide. The problem went any and a gained a couple extra FPS. The Hyper-glide is like $25 so it is pretty inexpensive. Dustin
Ok so dumb question being. Can I change the slide myself (without a bow press) or does it need to be taken to a bow shop?
You need a bow press. The guy at the shop I bought it from replaced it for me, it literally took 3 min.
Ok that sounds great! Will it hurt anything if I continue to shoot it like this for the next week or so? Funds won't allow me to fix it till next Friday lol and I don't wanna not shoot my bow
You do not need a press. Just watch what you’re doing. Pull the cables straight of the rod, remove old slide, assemble the Hyper, pull cables and slide back and slide on rod. Changed out my last Elite about a month ago. Do not wax the rod! It will collect dirt and cause bigger problems. Saunders sends a tube of lube, use it.
I am not a Saunders fan, too many parts. That said i have had one on one bow i built bows for three years and no issues. It will work well on that elite as they tune best will as little load on the cables as possible. I cant see what model that is but if its over 32" . E35 or synergy or an older answer ect ...the pse roller slide will work well as well. Dont discount regular teflon slide like the hoyt or limb saver slide either if you want to save a couple bucks. They work well .
It's a hunter. I have a couple of guides but I can't tell what they are made from. They say nap on them. So I'm confused. Do I need a bow press or can I do it by hand? I'm sorry for all the questions guys, I just don't wanna mess my bow up.
I changed mine without a bow press. Just take note of where each one goes on the slide and you should be good. It's a really simple process. There are various YouTube videos that show slide replacement if need be Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
They wont work...i think those are old carbon slides made like 10 years ago. Skip it. Here is a link to a hoyt slide that you can change with out a press http://www.lancasterarchery.com/hoyt-pro-guide-slide.html
Josh, I was wrong about the bow press. When I had mine replace the guy at the shop put my bow in a press and swapped it out. But after doing some research you do not need a bow press. I apologize for the confusion. Dustin
Oh it's no problem man! I appreciate the help guys I really do! So is this something I can keep shooting till Friday? I shoot everyday, season here in KY is coming fast about a month out. Just as I said can't really afford to mess my bow up
As long as you’re not seeing any fraying of the cables, you’ll be fine. How far out do you have the rod turned? It should be just enough for the vanes to clear the cables, no more.
Not exactly sure what you mean. I will take a better picture of the rod/string placement in the A.M and post. I can tell you that I've had to turn my arrows on the nock to make the vanes clear the rod.
Nock an arrow and take the picture behind the rod facing forward. With your rest, the cock vane should be straight up. Are you running 3 or 4 fletch? What vane are you using?
Your rod is fine. Hunters had a dog leg rod and on right hand bows it should be set about 1or 2 o'clock or 4 or 5 o'clock...your pictures shows the later.
Does it not matter what the other feller was saying? Because I can't shoot my odd Fletch straight up without it hitting the cable? I don't know how long it's been that way only recently noticed it and moved the nock to alleviate the problem
Your better off rotating a nock then you are adding more load to your cable. Providing your clearing the rest with the flecthing its better to have your" odd" flech at say 10 instead of 12 o'clock if it means less load on the cable. Especially with a binary cam system and fixed cable rod like you have the closer the cables are to neutral the better.
