I want to start fetching my own arrows and not sure I'm ready for the bitzenburger, so I wanna get the AZ ez fletch. But that does right helical and my bow spins the arrow left (counterclockwise). Do I NEED a right helical? Or even a straight vane? TIA Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
No. If you're ocd about it then yes. There is not enough force between the two motions to have a tug of war. The helical will take over without hesitation. The only time you actually need to match anything is with single bevel heads. Even then the same applies in that the stronger force will take over(the bevel of the head in this case). FWIW I suggest you look at straight offset instead. No reason a release shooter with a modern compound should shoot helical, regardless of the broadhead chosen. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Totally disagree that there isnt an benefit to the increase stabilization of a heical fletch on broadhead tiped arrows. The increased roation of the helical will help inpart direction to a well tuned shaft and add forgiveness and consistency. The only time the direction on the helical is of importance is to match it to the bevel on a single bevel head. Otherwise it wont matter.
It is not needed therefore is wasteful. Only the minimum required to achieve good flight is required. If you need helical something is not tuned proper. If you don't then we'll, you don't. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Absurd. A hunting bow should be set up in the most forgiving manner possible because in hunting situations outside variables are always in play. As much leeway that can be inparted into your set up should be imparted in your set up. There is no downside to the increseed stabilization and forgiveness that a helical fletched shaft provides at typical hunting conditions .
Haha. My opinion is absurd. Okay whatever. So on one hand you've got all these guys chasing speed and shooting 70+ yards; they shouldn't be concerned with excess drag? On the other hand you've got guys like me shooting high FoC who are getting stabilization right out of the bow. Seems unnecessary in both cases. But I guess that's absurd.... Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I shoot recurves and longbows. A tuned arrow ( bareshaft grouped with fletched) will be your best performing arrow , period. No matter how fletching is oriented.
Don’t be afraid of the Bitzenburger. I felt the same way and got an EZ Fletch first. I couldn’t seem to get them even and nice looking like I wanted. A Bitzenburger is just as easy to use so don’t be afraid of it. The helical debate....how I do it and I don’t have any other clamps so this isn’t an opinion really...it’s not what I like, it’s what I am used to lol I take a bare shaft and shoot through paper. Then I index the nock so I’m shooting a bullet hole (this is after my bow is bareshaft tuned out to 30 yards). Sometimes it takes a 1/4 turn of the nock to get rid of...not necessarily a tear...but an offset hole through paper. When I do this, I start with the little line on the nock towards me(right hander). When I have a bullet hole, I also make note of which way the shaft turns as I shoot it. Normally, I’ll shoot 5 yards through paper and the line on the nock will be around 7 oclock. Then I’ll back up to 10 yards and the line will be at 5 or 6 o’clock (this is what happens with the Halon 32 I’m shooting now, could be the arrows, could be the bow IDK.) So I can see the arrows rotate left w/o any vanes. I bought a Bitzenburger on Facebook Market place and, after I got home with it, I noticed it had a left helical clamp. So here I am. Lol I am a firm believer that indexing every nock on each shaft will reduce or eliminate fliers. As far as helical.... I got the jig and clamp used for $35 so that’s what my arrows get and they shoot just fine.
I shoot left helical and I shoot the nock vane up. It works for me. Sent from my SM-G930V using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Thanks for the replies. I was about to get some popcorn there for a little bit. Haha! Maybe I'll try to find a deal on a bitz. But still unsure of the helical direction. Will my bow ALWAYS release an arrow spinning left? Or does that have to do with the string? Can I put a twist in the string to change it? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sometimes it's spine sometimes it the string. Could even be the nock. If they're all spinning the same it's probably the string and yes you should be able to influence that by changing the twists but that will change the tune of the bow (brace). So if you take 10 turns out you'll need 10 turns on the other side and you're right back where you started unless you can turn the limb bolts to compensate. Just speculation.... Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Bare shafted arrows leave my bow flying counter-clockwise. Therefor, I fletch with a left helical... Keeps the momentum moving the same direction. Probably doesn't matter, but I need as much help as I can get!
Does anyone that is a right hand shooter see any clearness issues of their cables with a left helical? Also do your heads come loose in flight? I have always fetched my arrows with a 1 degree offset, not a true helical and will be going helical next go around...just need to buy a a helical clamp for my jig!
I ended up getting a left helical clamp on a bitz. Not to practice on some practice arrows and then build my killers. I'll keep on eye o the broadheads and points getting loose. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Helical is like rifling in a gun. It helps your arrow straighten in the air. I twist mine right with a form I bought from cabelas. Blazer fletchings are great for this Sent from my SM-G892A using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Finally found time to fletch for the first time in my life. I ended up getting a bitz with a left helical clamp. I also got the aae "package" with the sample pack from Nock On. I think I'm pleased with the outcome. Now to find some time to shoot.... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
OK, I’ve got to ask. How do you know your bow spins the arrow to the left? It’s the vanes that guide the arrow and create the direction of rotation.
Mark a bare shaft with a sharpie. Shoot at about 3 yards and make note of where the mark is at. Step back about to about 6 or 7 yards and shoot. You should be able to tell which way the arrow is rotating.
