No, timing is making sure both stops hit at the same time. What you're referring to is cam synchronization. When I tuned my elite victory, both cams were rotating the same amount, at the same point in the draw and ending in the same point but I had to move one limb stop to time the bow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
On the OD Binary cams if you move the cable stop (not limb stop on these) you are changing your draw length and/or changing the valley. You need to adjust the cables to change when to stops hit on the OD Binary cams. That's why some guys are excited about the no press dial on this new bow.
Yeah I know. I was just explaining about the limb stops. It's an interesting concept but It's not hard to adjust cam timing in a press and I feel it is just over complicating things in the pursuit of simplicity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I like Bowtech bows and have owned several. I think they have the best cam system out right now. If they would get the limb issues figured out I might be interested in another. The ability to adjust cam timing with no press is interesting. However, I don't get how they saved so much mass weight with the riser when it's a 31" bow at 4.2lbs.
Guys - I updated the original post. I received conflicting info in what was sent to me a few days ago so I elected to post the slower specs so no one would be disappointed. The bow is indeed 350fps @ 30".........not 31".
Oh ok, when both you and trial mentioned moving limb stops I thought maybe it needed clarification. I agree though about it not being hard to make adjustments. I have a press and have no issue with it. Some folks don't have presses though so they will like it, if they like the bow that is.
On the Bowtech's, you do not move the limb stops to set timing and IMO, is incorrect as your cam synch is still off regardless and you're just artificially fixing it by adjusting one stop slightly. The Bowtech's have pre drilled, numbered holes on the cams, so you can't "tweak" them. You have to adjust the cables to either retard or advance one cam slightly, to get both cams to roll over and both stops to make contact at the same time. Basically, you are supposed to tweak the synchronization of the cams to set the timing. The reason you have to do this anyway is because on most bows, such as the Bowtech's, you're not pulling from the exact center of the string. One limb may also be of a very slightly different deflection, slightly less poundage, etc. Then you add in the whole drop away that is tied into the down cable nonsense and it effects timing.
I'm well aware of how to tune bows. I'm just saying on a limb stop bow like trial is referring to, moving the stops affects timing, adjusting the cables affects sync. Neither I nor trial, were referring to using limb stops to adjust timing on bowtechs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am as well. Even on limb stop bows, the proper way to set timing is with the cables, not the stops. The Elites, for example, are nothing more than Bowtechs 2005-2008 technology and back then, we set timing with cable twists, leaving both stops set exactly the same on the cams.
I understand. On my prime I have both stops maxed out and adjusted the cables to get both stops hitting at the same exact time. But like I said on my victory, the cams were oriented in the exact same position, rotated the same at the same point in the draw and ended at the exact same orientation. It was still necessary to move one stop a 16th of an inch in order to get the stops hitting at the same time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cam timing and syncing are two different things. After you sync the cams so they advance at the same rate you then adjust the timing via the limb stops so the draw cycle ends at the same time for both cams. That is simpler to do then it is to type out how to do. For the record I wouldn't take this new bow tech cam if it's was giving to me for free Adding all the nonsense to micro adjust a cam is just making things overly complicated where it isn't needed. It's adding more parts and pieces to fail, and to monitor for changes. Furthermore unless you change the way you measure your synchronization then I don't see how a micro adjustment of it can even be considered added value. Are you going to measure it with a laser? A caliper? All this is smoke and mirrors to create hype rather then functionality. And can't and won't be used by 95% of bow buyers, never mind bow hunters. .
How do you like the Victory? I've been staring at Elite for the last couple of years waiting for something to really knock my socks off from them. Not into the short brace bows like they released this year. Almost bought an e32 last year.
Really great shooting bow. Holds like a rock. I just moved to a pro edge elite because I like shooting a hinge more with cable stops. But the victory is right up there with the best bows I've ever shot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is the one thing I've noticed when I shoot my BT release over the summer, how I shoot better with the tiny bit of sponginess you get with cable stops compared to limb stops. Just that slightly more "pull" through I guess.
Yeah that little bit of give lets you pull through a little and execute your shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They released a victory 37 at the ATA show this wee, it's a6.75 brace height bow, 37 ATA rated at 330. Looks likes it going to be really solid bow to the line up. I am thinking about one for some open country hunts I have planned.
If you have the finances to back us, lets do it. First bow we design will be called "The Sota" in your honor.
