I have racked my brain around this calling every company on how to do this. I have gotten many different answers. I have a martin saber pro series se. It is set at 55lb 291/2 draw with a NAP 360 hostage rest. I shoot 400 gold tip devastators and hunters 55/75. I shoot 100 grain field tips and 100 grain Muzzy, I called Muzzy they said to tune my broad heads to the field tips. I than called Gold Tip and they said get a new rest that the one I have will skew my shot left and right. He also said that paper tuning the bow is just a ball park. He told me I have to fine tune my bow with a bear shaft (no fletching.) I shot my Muzzy and was 8" and 45 degrees off from center of target. The guy from Gold tip told me Muzzy is not that accurate of a broad head. That the drag from the broad head and fletching will off set one another. The fletching will try to correct what the broad head is doing, and broad head will try to correct what the fletching is doing. I am trying to micro tune every thing so it all comes together. I am having a hard time understanding how to do this. I solved the problem for this year I bought Rage mechanical blades with a practice tip. I will tune my bow to this broad heads for now. I would like to fix the problem if any one has any advice. Justin has also helped me with my question but never shot my style broad head if any one can help please do.
I'm sure you already know this but it's not the broadheads.. I would try walk back tuning your bow. If I had to guess I would bet that your field points are not hitting your target square either. ie they maybe hitting where you aim but there probably going in at an angle? for what it's worth I never have to broadhead tune. My field tips and broad heads fly the same.
yep... its a tuning problem... the fletching helps keep the arrow straight being at the back, but the broadhead trys to steer the arrow being at the front... as the arrow comes off the rest it it's not perfectly straight the passing air over the broadhead will steer it.. ie., if the rest kicks the back of your arrow up at reliese giving it a downward angle the wind over the broadhead will push the front of the arrow down causing a downward flight... thus to correct this you would have to move the rest down to not kick the arrow up... if its already shooting bullet holes with field tips, 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch would probably fix it. move the rest in the direction of the broadheads in very small amounts until broadheads and fieldtips hit the same... then readjust your sites and you will be set...
I was having issues with my Muzzy heads as well. Went through 3 brand new packs and still nothing consistent. I have my bow tuned correctly, but was getting erratic flight from them. Decided to spin test the heads. They were all junk. I was surprised to see this since I've been using them for 10 years. Threw them away and ordered some Dirt Nap DRTs. They will be here Monday so I can see h ow they will work. From what I've seen and read, Muzzy has gone downhill.
I use Montec G5 fix blades and they fly exactly like my field tips.. I think most of the newer broadheads are tested to fly like field tips and if they don't there's probably something a little off with the tuning of your bow.
Keith, you must start with paper tuning before anything else. Then bare shaft tune if you must. Like "Smoke" I never have an issue after getting a perfect bullet hole from about 6-8 feet. One other BIG issue many overlook is using the straightest arrows you have and square up the insert end (use squaring device or take to you local shop) and spin test EACH head. They should have NO wobble at the tip. I have not had good luck with some muzzy heads but that's another subject. I've had the best luck with the shorter style heads, i.e., Slick Trick and similar. This method has served me well and my fp's and bh's hit the same out to 60 yds. I know it is a tedious process, which is why mechanicals sell well theses days. Be careful using mechanicals as a light arrow on a quartered animal could mean little penetration and lost animal. Good luck!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
At 55#, I think you'll be much happier in the end if you get a good fixed head and properly tune your bow.
I've totally changed the way I set things up now and yes the initial set up is a pain but on some bows it saves a tone of time 1) bareshaft tune 2) paper tune with fletchings 3) shoot my arrows with broadheads from 20-60yards 4) shoot my arrows with feildpoints from 20-60yards by doing the first 2 steps I've never had a problem with getting them to hit the same spot Dan
confirm the bow is in spec, correct draw length, correct spine arrows, spin arrows w/ choosen broadhead (may need to flush ends) paper tune, walk back tune, sight in w/ field tips 20-60, shoot field tips/ broadheads at 40yds and adjust the rest/ nock point until broadheads and field tips group together, adjust the sight (if rest adjustments were made). 2 Muzzy 3 blade, 2 field tips at 40. not my best but not horrible.
Did u have to tune or nap with arrow ? I did 15 yard good great the tried 30 they were all over the place tune them with flech now good till 60 yards!! Just me experience
