I'm having problems with the flight of my slick trick 100 grain magnums. I couldn't really tell you that they hit a specific location every single time but they always seem to be shooting left, sometimes high, sometimes low, while my field points are dead on. The only consistency I've seen with them is that they definitely shoot different than my field points. I've had my bow paper tuned recently at a bow shop and asked if someone could help me with selecting broadheads by actually shooting them at the range. They basically told me that they don't allow people to test shoot broadheads and to keep trying different brands until I found one that shoots like my field points, which is obviously expensive advice. Is there anything I can do at home to improve the flight of my broadheads with the ultimate goal of being to get both field points and broadheads hitting the same spot? If it helps, my set up is in my signature, and I shoot at a 60 pound draw weight, and 28" draw length.
Give this a quick look. Might be able to self diagnose. http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf As far as the fixed blade goes, I used to be a mechanical all the way guy because i couldnt get my fixed bladed to fly right. Well after determination and bow tuning and adjustment i can honestly say they fly like my field points. Sooo with that being said, there is hope you just have to be patient. As far as tuning my bow myself, it has really given me not only invaluable knowlege but also confidence in myself and equipment. Good luck.
I noticed the same with my slick trick mag 100gr. I started to broadhead tune but ran into problems. Not related to the broadheads. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2
YOU need to paper tune the bow not take the pro shops word for it. A bow not tuned will throw broadheads low, left.Every bow can be tuned to shoot field points and fixed blade broadheads the same. Montecs, Hellrazors, muxxy, slicktricks, all great heads. Is your arrow the proper spine?
I screwed on an old wasp fixed blade and it consistently low left. Regarding paper tuning...at what distance should the paper be to overcome natural arrow flexing (archers paradox)?
What is your arrow spine? Like PSE said, more than likely a tuning issue. I was to the point last year where at 60 yards i could shoot a fixed blade muzzy, a bloodrunner, rage, and killzone all in the same ring. The tuning was spot on though. My brother was having the same issue. He was having interference issues with his vanes on riser/rest. The broadheads were 4 inches left of his field point, every time. There are a number of things. i would start with arrow specs and interference, then move on to tuning (even if you find an issue with the first 2, you should still ensure the tune).
No matter what I did the slick trick mags I shot never would group with my field points. I tried so many different methods of tuning. Didn't make a difference. Switched to Montecs and my headache was gone. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
I shoot radial waves. They say "300" on them so I'm going to guess thats the arrow spine. At work today I did a little research when I had a spare moment. I found that broadheads that hit left were over-spined, meaning they were too stiff. Have any of you guys found that to be true? If thats the case, then maybe a 125 grain, or increasing my draw weight might help. Let me know what you think of that, it could mean an arrow change too.
I've heard good things about montec. I've shot muzzy mX4s and slick tricks, both have four blades and have had trouble with both. Maybe I need to try a three blade or a mechanical broadhead.
Everything I've found online says the 300 is a .350 spine, not the .300 as assumed. Therefore, you should only be slightly stiff, so that's better. Start by paper tuning, get about 6 feet away and take 5 or 6 shots before determining (I made my paper tuner by cutting the bottom out of a milk crate and using printer paper. I've used a cardboard box even, just need the paper tight). See what that shows I would make a slight adjustment to the rest first (broadhead tuning on the easton archery guide). If you get to adjusting a good bit (outside of center shot), then proceed to the next couple items. Next, you want to reduce the stiffness of your arrow. This can be done by either turning up your draw weight, or increasing your tip weight, whichever you are more comfortable with. Do not make more than 1 adjustment at a time and do them in moderation. You'll get to where you're walking a fine line of a perfectly tuned bow.
I just completely changed my setup so I'm doing the same. My mechanical and field points were together but my fixed were about 4 inches to the right. I only had to make a small rest adjustment to get it on track.
My .02 is to try a heavier spine. You only have to buy one arrow to test it. Move your rest to make the BH hit the same spot as the FT. Another .02 is that straight helical mini vanes don't perform as well as the quick spins. Yes... and only one adjustment at a time as was stated.
