Wow, thats pretty good. I thought that stack of 2x4s looked kind of weird, but I just figured you got some fancy studs or something
Hahahaha thats pretty good, crabtree. I though that AR looked a little funky. Great job on the scale model. When you finally get a full one built, you can come up to Pa and help me build one. Ill pay in beer.
Yeah... you got me too! I was wondering how much extra dough you had laying around. The GI Joe was a priceless addition.
I began working on the full scale tower stand over the holidays. The one issue I did not address with the scale model was the windows, namely the design and how they would open. At first I thought sliding side by side would be a good option but I forever lose half the window. I didn’t want a hinged design that either swung in or out because of the motion and the issues with keeping them open at a time when a deer approaches so I am messing around with a vertical slider with a counter weight balance system which makes the window very easy to open and keeps it in the open position without having to secure the window. The Plexiglas and wood frame is 15 inches by 42 inches and weighs about 5 pounds The window rides in tracks on each end and slides up but the weight of the window was a bit much for super easy opening so I used the type of counter weight system so many milk house doors had on the farm. I have not yet removed the protective film on both sides of the window nor have I installed the felt sliders to quiet the window but I got a chance to play around with the design to see if this is the route I want to go. Here is a view from the inside. The handle to open the window is a coat hook I modified and turned upside down. The sill and sash on the outside are made from treated lumber and painted. I installed the sill at quite an angle to ensure water run-off as I don’t want water to get into the bottom track of the window and then freeze. In the widow itself I installed a weather shield sort of mini awing made of aluminum. It’s the angle piece used for suspended ceilings. With the window open, you can see how it protects the bottom track from rain. On each vertical end, I installed a “P” shaped piece of adhesive backed weather stripping also to keep water out. To further detour rain, I added a wood strip above the entire window and then used a piece of roofing material called a gutter apron only I used it upside down to act as an additional awing to keep rain out. Here is a picture of the temporary rope I used to tie the window to the counter weight. After opening the window a few times and hearing the hard stop I installed a block of wood and a piece of sticky backed foam above the window to quiet the stop. Here is a video of the window being opened. It takes very little effort to lift. The “Clunking” sound you hear at the top of the window opening is not the hard stop but rather the crude counter weight at the other end of the rope as it swings and hits the wall. For a better and quieter counter weight I envision a PCV tube with the right amount of weight (perhaps sand) with end caps on the PVC tube. That sand weighted PVC would slide inside a slightly larger piece of PVC tucked into the corner near the floor. This keeps the weight from being bumped or swinging and making noise. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTON8raSA_c&feature=youtu.be It looks promising so far. I still need to work on making the windows quieter.
Since the sun and its UV rays as well as the grit carried in the wind as well as rain, snow and the risk of birds trying to fly through the blind only to smash into the Plexiglas are all negatives that are likely to occur during the 8 months this blind will sit idle every year, I have decided to install off-season shutters to protect the windows and further weatherproof the blind. The other reason in doing so is that it costs very little to provide this protection since the shutter is made from the scrap created by cutting the window opening. The small latches and hinges came to less than $6.00. In the following pictures, I have removed the aluminum awning made from the gutter apron that will be installed above the window. In prior pictures I held it in place with tape for the photo. The aluminum is too fragile for the rigors of transportation so it will be installed on-site once the blind is erected. Here is the view from the outside with the shutter raised. The shutter sits against the lip created by extending the window sash. I installed a wooden handle to raise and lower the shutter as well as 2 latches to keep the shutter closed. The handle has a deep finger groove to make it easy to grab and hold on while raising the shutter. The view from the outside with the shutter lowered. This seems like a good and low cost way to protect the windows.
So... are we going to believe you this time? hahaha Cool stand, I am pretty sure whatever you do will be excellent.
I finally got some free time to work on the blind now that its warm enough. I got the remaining walls built and positioned them together for a fit-up and so I can start working on the rest of the shutters and sliding windows. The box now has two coats of Behr Premium exterior paint and the off season shutters are installed. The shutters will protect the stand and especially the Plexiglas windows during the 9 months of the year the stand sits outside unused and exposed to the elements. The view from inside. I have yet to install the sliding Plexiglas windows on the inside. The door has a smaller window and the Plexiglas will not open like the windows on the walls. As such, I had to install a dead bolt on the outside to keep it closed in the off season Here the shutters are down. There is a self adhesive foam gasket all around the window opening that the shutter touches to make a weather tight seal. Now its time to build the roof.
Looks great man! You remind me of someone I used to follow his posts at another website who did a lot of activities in his spare time 'cause he didn't have a TV (OK actually I know it is you). I left that website (LL) 'cause the constant bickering over EVERYTHING!!! I built a chest-high wooden blind for an existing metal tripod for my Father (69 yr old) this past Winter out of some left over 5/8 and 3/4" pressboard. I really wanted to build a full enclosure like yours, but he only hunts about 2 days/year and I did not have enough supplies at the time! I will have to take some pics the next time I am on the property around the beginning of June. Congrats yours is looking great just like some of those knives you have fabricated.
With the box mostly done, I turned my attention to the roof. I was going to use a spreadable rubberized roof coating but last weekend I was up North cutting firewood and my brother told me about all the rubber roof material he had on hand so I am going that route. The roof is made from 7/16 OSB and framed with 2x2's (except where the seam where the two sheets meet, there I used a 2 x 3 and caulked the joint before screwing the OSB down). The roof overhangs the box by 8 inches all around. Then I gave the exposed underside 2 coats of the same colored paint. The center portion (inside ceiling of the box) will be insulated) Ready to apply the rolled roofing material. The Rubber is thick (just over 1/16th inch and very stiff (and heavy) Its been cold lately (its 33 F right now) so I will have to wait until I can set the roof out in the sun to warm it up enough to stretch and smooth out the rubber before I can attach it all around the edge.
Finally read through the entire post and after a very tough night at work this post just made my day! That was so funny! Not sure if I should ever believe anything you say or do from now on though!
After spending a few hours in the warm sunshine, the rubber roofing material was easy to smooth and flatten. The wooden strips around the perimeter help hold it in place. Then I used clear silicone caulk all around the top where the rubber meets the wood. This roof should last a very long time.
Yesterday I built the frame for the floor. Its made from treated 2 x 6 with joists on 16 inch centers. Then because I had lots of scrap ends, I filled in the joist spaces with additional blocking. Is it overkill?? You bet. I don’t want a floor that creeks and groans. I’m building it once so I want it too be strong rather than wish I would have when its too late to do anything about it. The first layer of ½” OSB was screwed down after laying beads of construction adhesive on all the joists. Then I laid down more construction adhesive and another layer of ½ OSB Now I have a floor that an inch thick that is both glued and screwed. Is it over kill?? You bet it is.
