I have recently started shooting a recurve after shooting a compound for 20 years. Right now, I basically have my recurve setup with a nocking point and shooting off the shelf. Really just trying to get back in the habit of shooting with fingers and instinctively for now. I have been using some older carbon arrows from one of my heavier compound bows. Now I am at the point of picking and tuning an arrow to fit my set-up. Any suggestions on arrow length for a recurve? More specifically, when at full draw, how far does your arrow stick out beyond the shelf?
Just an educated guess. I had the same question when I bought a Bear Kodiak recurve many years ago. The tech marked an arrow one inch past the back of the bow to the back of the point, either field point or broadhead. Other might have additional information here. Good shooting. BTW, I sold that bow for $25! Equivalent bow is about $500!
I always do 30 inch arrows for my 28inch pull. I wouldnt recommend going shorter than 1 inch over your draw length. Longer arrows than 30 inch (for me) make it difficult for nock draw from the quiver for blind nocking.
To be honest my experience won't help you. I started with a recurve and shoot compound now instinctive. I have to use a full factory length arrow. The reason is I'm a rt handed left eye dominate shooter. OK guys I know the standard thought on this. ,that said, I'm a lefty that is 61 yrs old. I grew up in a time when leftism was sorely frowned upon. Teachers were told to recondition us. Well that wasn't happening, school was hell until my Mom went in and tore into the school officials. But when it came to equipment everything was right handed. I grew up shooting archery rt handed. Using thumb safety bottom eject guns. Had to drive to PA to get my bolt action rifle. Apparently lots of lefties down there lol So the length for my situation has to be long and I can sight ,as it were, down to tip of broad head. Works for me.
Me too. (no hash tag ...). Being about 50 years, my first teacher forced me to write right-handed. The upside is, mirror writing comes naturally. Fortunately, my dominant hand goes with my dominant eye. For arrow length, I would suggest to add an extra inch, so that broadheads don't touch the shelf. I guess you don't use a clicker like the olympics. My method is: - start with a longer and stiffer shaft, the extra length makes is weaker; - prepare several shafts of different length (in 0,5" steps) with tips of my desired tip weight; - shoot out what length matches best (bare shaft test, no fletching at 10 yd, 15yd, 20yd, 30yd); - prepare + fletch remaining arrows according results; Works fine with my short mediterranean draw of about 26,5 ". Taller guys might have a problem, shafts in excess of 32" are hard to find ...
Awesome! Thanks for all the input. One more question for traditional arrows. Feathers or vanes? Sent from my SM-G960U using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Vanes only work with certain arrow rests, because they do not compress. That means, the arrow gets a "proper" kick to the side if the vane hits the arrow rest or shelf. For shooting directly from the shelf (only some hair or felt "rest"), as most traditional archers do, you definitely need feathers. Feathers, at least the preprocessed and dyed you get from your archery shop, have one disadvantage. If the get wet, they get "flat" and almost useless. But if you did a proper bareshaft optimization, this should not matter ... I don't claim to be a great expert, only gathered some experience here and there. And I know there are quite a lot of good trad archer resources on the net, like this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/ibprimitive/videos PS: - some additional comments Surely you don't need to build your own bow like that guy, but he gives good hints about arrow selection and shooting. And he talks about hunting setups. Bareshaft testing assumes a stable technique. If you just start into that kind of shooting, perhaps you can get to a pro shop that could help you. Just to mention it.
I use feathers, they clear the riser better imo vs vanes. (So far I like trueflight and bearpaw) plus adds some charm to me, that traditional charm.
I'm almost 72 but never experienced teachers trying to make me write right-handed. I only write and eat LH but can shoot and do just about anything from both sides. OTOH, my grandfather had his knuckles hit with a ruler every time he started to write with his left hand. Could you see that now? His handwriting was a beautiful scroll-type writing that would put a word processor to shame. I cut arrows to extend one inch past the bow as stated before.
I didn't read all the posts. Someone may have already suggested this... When you're shooting a setup with archers paradox (both from the riser and your fingers) you really should let the bow pick the arrow length. What that means is you should use a chart or software to get you close based on your specs, cut the shaft close to what you predict then shoot the arrow bareshaft and based on the impact and nock orientation, cut the shaft in small increments until the reaction is perfect. This is called dynamic reaction tuning using the cut and trim method. Back in the day guys called method "tuning the arrow to the bow" and in many ways is the only way to go for trad. I actually recommend this same method for compound as well. It's more accurate of a tune imo.
