Your first reply - your first words - - "Did you bareshaft test that arrow? Impact looks consistently left." Not an example. And again I ask - left of what? I would like to learn.
As for the "impact being consistently left" it is quite possible (likely?) that I was standing a bit off center from the target. I was just happy that they grouped together so nicely. Not Olympic standards by any means, but not bad for something like me that is just starting out. Usually, I get at least one flier that is almost in the same county as the others.
No, no broadheads yet. I need to get one of those block targets that will stop a broadhead first. That will take a couple months, considering what they cost. They don't allow broadheads to be shot into their backstop; field points only. Considering how many people use their range, the damage broadheads would do to the backstop, the work, time, and cost it would take to repair/replace the backstop, I understand why broadheads are not allowed, and agree with their thinking. Since this is the ONLY place I can shoot, I think it would be a good idea to follow their rules on what arrowheads can be used. Also, it would probably be a good idea to have the broadheads I want to hunt with. I know I want a cut on contact (which I don't have yet) and a one piece 2 or 3 blade. (I don't want replaceable blades). I'll need to get a package of each and shoot them to determine which will work best for me. All things considered, I suspect it will be the two blade that will give me the best penetration. I am retired, and live ("survive" might be a more apt description) on a low fixed income of under $800 a month, retirement and disability combined. I cannot afford to get everything I need or want at once.
I was going to walk away from this considering the comments I'm getting from other members but I suspect you're appreciating my advice. If I'm mistaken don't be shy to let me know and I'll move on, no hard feelings.... What I meant by impact is that the majority of the arrows in that target are impacting left of bullseye. That would mean many things. To resolve it (if you wish to-do I'll agree it's subtle) we need to break things down into steps in order to eliminate the variables. Many don't agree with doing this. It's tedious. The way I see it, bowhunting is not intended to be easy. So preparing yourself to do it is going to be tedious. Too many are being fooled by advancements in the technology if our sport and head to the woods with ill prepared gear. To me, bowhunting and the "it's good enough" mentality are contradictory. I digress. It may turn out to be your form or that quite simply that is the best group you're capable of. That's perfectly fine. You're in the "pie plate" so you're all clear to hunt. But what I'm offering is the possibility of figuring out if it might be something you can correct. The best way to do that is to perform a bareshaft test. This will tell us exactly how the arrow is reacting to being launched from the bow. This would be done at short range initially to mitigate form. Many people don't know how or don't agree with doing this stuff because it can become misleading; that is why I am offering to guide you through the entire process.
I appreciate your input. That was my last group of the day. It is likely the sight was still off by one or two clicks. Next day? Not touching the sight adjustments? 15 to 20 inches high and 4 - 5 inches right, using the same aiming point, and not changing my anchor point. I think after three days, I finally have it hitting close to my point of aim again. Some days I get so frustrated, I'm almost tempted to trade the bow in on a crossbow. Instead, I just pack up and go home, then try again the next day.
what is the GPI on those arrows? I might have a beman ics bare shaft i can send you cut down to 25" if you want to bare shaft tune.
Thank you. 8.1 or 8.3 GPI, I don't remember which. I'll have to check tomorrow. I know they are a 400 spine. Just add at Gmail dot com to my username for my email address.
You know, looking back on this thread and pondering... If I were you, I'd just shoot a good old Easton camo Hunter 2117 with a razor sharp 150gn Magnus stinger. Bith are inexpensive but high quality. Loose one and who cares.
OK. Thanks for the offer. Mine are 8.1 GPI. A guy let me use his foam box target today. I need to not shoot broadheads for groups. Shot/cut off three vanes.
I've decided to go with 480 grain arrows with my compound bow @ 54.5 pound draw. If the recurve I ordered ever comes in, I'll probably use my 395 to 415 grain arrows at the effective 42 ~ 45 pound draw. Thanks, everyone for your help.
