I'm a little confused. I decided to give some carbon arrows a try from my 40 pound recurve. (About 42 lbs at my draw) I set up a couple of full length Beman 340 spine arrows with 100 grain brass inserts. Next I shot one fletched and one bare shaft from about 10 yards. Both arrows hit with the same spot. Where I'm confused is that I tried several different point weights from 100 up to 150 grains and got the same results each time. How can my arrows tune to such a wide range of point weights. I expected to have to pick one that was better than the rest or pick the heavy one and cut the shaft down to get the spine right. Am I too close at 10 yards? Not close enough? Does carbon simply accommodate a wide range of points? I could use some advice, please. Edit: I forgot to mention that I am shooting 4 inch vanes with a stick on arrow rest if that makes any difference. Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
At 340 with the length of the shaft and weightyoure simply seeing one reaction even though you're changing point weight. That is an incredibly stiff arrow for that bow. Go buy singles of 400 and 500 spines and do the same. You'll see a different poi. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Way stiff, 600's should be tunable. I use aluminum and when checking tune its usually 20 yards shooting four or five fletched and one bareshaft.
It will take quite a bit of shooting to acquire consistent form in order to find your best arrow. For the time being I bet a 600 with a 125 point will shoot good enough for now, being that they appear to be flying well. Find the best fit can be developed later as your form improves , otherwise you'll pull your hair out.................. I'd put some feathers on as well.
Thanks for the advice. I will keep practicing form, and later will play around with fine tuning my arrows. Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
One more question, guys. Why does everyone say my arrows are over spined? According to charts by Easton and 3 Rivers for a full length 32 inch shaft and 200 plus grains up front a 340 shaft should be just right or even verging on being a little under spined depending on the tip weight that I add to the brass insert. Do the charts routienly fail to reflect reality? Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk
Why not use an arrow such as aluminum that falls in your draw length/ draw weight.......... Plug in desired point weight, at 42 lbs, draw length ( about 29,making a finished arrow at 30 1/2" ,that's all you need)That will eliminate adding all that extra weight. Aluminum has more spine choice , makes it much easier.
Your not seeing any reaction because even adding the additional point weight it still isn’t enough to weaken the spine considering to are way overspined.
Because it's Trad and there is paradox going of your fingers and around the bow. The shaft needs to flex to correct both. Right now your aim is compensating. If you compare a weaker spine you are the difference. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I tried carbon for several years with a overly stiff reading on 35/55 gold tips. Finally put 250 grains up front and they got better.. Everyone told me that was way too weak for 52# @ 29.. 30 1/2 inch arrows.. I had no problems with wood and aluminum so I stayed with them.. Chris
#40 pounds at 28" of draw would require a 500 spine 35/55 if you are shooting gold tip. With the insert weight and tip you should be in the 200 to 230 grain neighborhood. Go to 3rivers.com and use their spine chart to check your setup both bow and arrow. You will be surprised at what comes up. This system works very well. If you have a shorter length draw, like one other said you may want to try a .600 spine?
