So I have been out of the compound loop for some time. Last set of arrows I purchased was aluminum. So many things changed and to be honest Im lost. I need some support and guidance on selection of arrows. I found that so many places make arrows now I have no idea who is good and what to look for anymore. So here I am…. I shoot a Bear, 29” draw, 61#. I shoot slick trick magnum 100grain heads. The arrows I currently have are Goldtip XTHunter 340. I would like to stay under the $50/half dozen price range. Can you advise/ recommend arrows for this setup and what spine to get? thanks
I do not shoot Gold Tips, so I can not speak to that particular arrow. However, with your draw length, the 340 spine should be correct. I do use the same Slick Trick Magnums. I would suggest that your final arrow weight should be 425-450 grains. With your set up, that arrow weight and broad head ought to give you a pass-through each time unless you hit one or both shoulders.
thank you for your comments. My confusion comes from the amount of options for arrows I guess. Carbon express or gold tip each have a dozen models of arrows. So what should I look for in a hunting arrow? What I have been doing is the straightness and cost to purchase.
What you have should be perfect for your setup. If you want to go a little less costly the GoldTip Hunter in 340 spine would be good. That is assuming your arrow length is around 28" to 29". Beman ICS Bowhunters in 340 are also in your price range as well as Easton AfterMath. Of the three anyone will do you well but the GoldTips are pretty tough. Hope that helps.
Just find one that in within your budget and a 340 spine. Thats really all you have to be concerned with. Most low end models are .006 in straightness and are fine for bowhunting. Unless you are worried about splitting Xs you really don't need anything better.
How long are your arrows? If you bow is drawing 29 inches than your arrows could be as short as 27 which would make a big difference in spine. 29 inch arrows would need to be 340 spine while 27 would be 400. I have had excellent experience with Beman ICS arrows. Even the cheapest arrows in the line are still high quality. I've killed deer and won 3-D shoots with the "cheap" Bow hunter arrows. Sent from my VS500 using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
Ill put a tape on the arrow tonight. the store sized the arrows so i assumed it was right when i bought the bow. I thought the top of the chart was the draw length and the side was the draw weight. it seems i might be looking at it wrong. so my understanding is now the top of the chart is the arrow length and the side is the draw weight? Can you explain to me if it is better to have a higher or lower number? I see I could shoot a 340 or 400 depending on the length of my arrow. Sorry this is so confusing for me. I read on the internet several places and just got three different explanations.
I have had good experience with Beman ICS Bowhunter arrows. Very good for their price. Well worth it in my opinion for a start with carbon Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
Ok spine relates to how much flex is in the arrow. The lower the number the more the flex. Ideally for hunting you want to error on the side of stiffer but your spine needs to fit your setup to maintain accuracy. If proper the arrow settles down and flight stabilizes. In case of 340 and 400, 340 is stiffer than 400. Generally the stiffer arrow is also heavier per inch. Make sense?
OK I understand. 340 is stiffer which maybe better for hunting if my arrow length is 28 or longer according to the gold tip chart. So say my arrow is 27" and its 340 spine. that would make it to stiff? I forgot how confusing this stuff is.... The kicker is I dont have a honest bow store within a 45 min drive of me. One store wants to sell me the top dollar stuff the others sell shoes.
Not to challenge how you guys do things where you're from but............................... Which is it...... higher or lower? Is 340 higher than 400?
I shoot @ 60#'s with a 28.5" draw and I use 340's. "My closest "good" bow shop is almost 2 hours away. Worth the drive.)
Crap you are right. The 340 arrow is stiffer and of course will be less flex and that is a lower number. Sorry fingers are faster than my little brain.
Could be but you can always try and tune the bow with the arrows that you have currently if they are 27". You could always add a little weight to the front end to offset it. Gold tip has some weights you can screw in to the back of the insert or you could change to a 125 grain head. Which Bear bow do you have currently?
I shoot the same arrow through my PSE, 28.5" draw, #61, 100 gr. NAP Spitfire Maxx BH. Pass-thrus at 13 yards and 25 yards this season. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok let me try to explain it this way. So we all know that .340 is smaller than .400 right? So how that is measured is by hanging a weight (around 2 lbs forget the actual weight) in the center of a 28" shaft and measuring how much the shaft sags (flexes) under the weight. if it measures .340 the spine defection is .340. So on a ruler .340 is shorter that .400 which means that the shaft sags less and therefore is stiffer.
Just use the charts, it's simple. You need to know your arrow length, tip weight, and draw length. Your arrow length will likely be w/in 1/2 an inch of your draw length, of not spot on. But honestly, you don't KNOW what the best arrow is until you spend time dialing it in and adjusting draw weight and/or arrow length for the tightest groups, if you want to even spend the time doing that. If not, just follow the charts and you'll be close enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
