Riddle me this:-/ I thought my bow was set for the season but shot some BH's last night and they're hitting 2'' left at 20yds. Slung a bare shaft this morning at 15yds and bullseye. I also hit a little left with field points from 20-50yds then from 60-70yds I'll start hitting right. My grip? Release hand? Buy a rifle?
I'm right there with ya. Coming off 3D I knew it was time to BH tune. Every bow I've had thunderheads are choice #1, although I've never got one to hit with a FP in 12 yrs with any bow. This year since I've gotten into 3D I don't want to site in for two different heads. Thunderheads are flying about 6" left and 8" low @ 20yds. So I buy replacement blades to make sure mine weren't bent, no go. Then I got brand new Thunderheads in case my old bases were deformed, no go. Rage practice head is spot on with FTs though. I've paper tuned with every spine from 300-400 and good there. Timing is spot on. Center shot is right on. FTs and bare shafts are good at least to 40yd, which is all my back yard will allow. I'm not adjusting my site this year and wasn't sure about shooting a Rage since I dropped from 70# to 61-62#, but I think I'll look at a different fixed head other than a Thunderhead. This is my first hunting season with my HHA instead of a 3 pin site and I'm not burning a tape going back and forth. I've tried with 340 spine and 400. I've moved nock point and rest around to the point I went out of tune and had to get back into tune. I cut my arrows half on the nock end and half on insert end and then square both and then square the insert. They look good on the spin tester. I've tried to tune the nocks and match the blades to the vanes - my next step woulda been call the Pope. Like Clint Eastwood said, "A man's gotta know his limitations," new BH time.
Try the wac'em 3-blades. I didn't have to do any adjusting on my set up, Spyder 30 @ 60#, 30"dl, They hit right with my fp's out to 55yrds.
I use G5 Strikers and have had really good luck with tuning them. A lot of people love slick tricks also, but for whatever reason I could not get them to tune. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
I here ya. 40 yards with a bare shaft is impressive though. I shoot two blade Wasp expandable Jak-knifes but I still like to get my arrows to fly well with fixed BH. I always keep a few fixed in my quiver for Yotes in case I need to shoot threw grass or sticks. PS the Jak-Knifes are on sale if anyone uses them. Code# jak16
I'm shooting 125g Muzzy Trocars and I'll tune with a Magnus Stinger and Shuttle T. All hitting low and left 2'' at 20.
Thanks for the tip. I've been tempted by the Jak-Knife since it came out last year but have always been a fixed head shooter. I just pulled the trigger and ordered a pack.
Important get ur bow paper tune from a proshopper first. Sight ur field tips at 10 yds, then sight ur heads at a 3d deer target or get a renzo 2d buck decoy or buck cardboard against ur target chart to tell if you're on target. 3d deer targets help alot when you're in a situation with encountering a deer
Always tune ur broadheads with ur sight. Don't rely on field tip shooting or use practice heads. The real heads are the real deal when it comes to harvesting the animal
They'll leave a blood trail and great penetration. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a7V4i6dyPq8 Kilboars Hunt Club
You need to broadhead tune your bow if they are not grouping with your field points. My thunderheads weren't matching my field points either so I checked my center shot, made sure my arrow was level, and ligned up my pin with my arrow looking down the string then I French tuned and broadhead tuned and now they are both grouping together perfectly out to 60 so far.
Well I'm tuned with NAP Thunderheads. Spent most of the afternoon fooling with it. Backstab was apparently loose and affected my grip, it slung around after my first shot. Got it set back right so I don't stare at my bubble the whole time. I took EVERYTHING back to drop dead center shot and I'm off low left as usual with BH. I backed off one turn on DW and they got closer. I backed off a second turn and they were closer. Now BH was an inch right and an inch high. I ever so slightly moved my rest down and left and these were my first two shots afterwards. Did have to move my HHA up 5 yds and hate losing 4# of DW, but I'll take accurate. Straw bale is FT and foam target is BH at 30yds. Shot 3 of each at the foam afterwards and all 6 touch, so I'm happy. Just gotta get on my OT2 and make a tape.
It could just be a little excitment. For testing it out I had that issue and I was dead on then 3 days later I was off I left the bow for a couple hours picked it back up and was dead on again the nerves just got to me
You have to sight the broadheads when the winds are calm. Broadheads respond differently from field tips when it flys through the wind
On a really windy day. On a 3d deer. A field point can be off by an inch at 20yds. But broadheads at 20 yds there off 5 inches or over left or right, depends on how strong the winds are. In an actual hunting situation. If a deer is broadside head facing left and the winds blowing at u more on the left side. Id aim my pin couple inches right or more so that the arrow would hit the deer in the lungs but if the deer is facing opposite side but winds are going on the left side. I'd aim the shoulder so that the arrow hits the deer behind the shoulder in the lungs
I won't sweat alot about shifting my pin at a deer at 15yds and under with windy conditions. But at 18yds to 25yds. U have to shift ur arrows with the wind
But once you're shooting 30 yds and over. The further you shoot. The more you jave to shift and anchor ur pins
I checked my Montec tipped arrows yesterday. First arrow hit right on the money, first try. I set it aside. Next two were off to the right a few inches. I swapped the heads. Next arrow hit on the money. I set it aside. Last arrow was still off. I rotated the nock a few degrees. Last arrow hit with the other two. My quiver is ready to go.
Not sure how much more a Whisker Biscuit is an issue but I think the fact that I'm not consistent with the surprise release my also add to the problem. On my #60 Target Prime Rival I just started using the back tension Evolution. It's hairy but dead on when you do it right.
