Having a problem tuning my bow. I did the walk back method of getting my sights and rest dialed in and got it perfect. As soon as I put broad heads on I am 4" low, and 6" to the left. I'm shooting a PSE Premonition HD at 57 lbs, Easton Helios 400 spine, 100 grain Muzzy MX 3 heads. The rest is a whisker biscuit. The grouping is perfect, just way 0ff.
Broadhead tune it. Assuming your bow is timed. Shoot feild points and broadheads at the same target. Move the rest in the direction you want the BH to go. Bringing both groups together. Small changes to the rest effect broadheads alot more than they do feild points. Only move one direction at a time. Broadhead tuning is all I do anymore, because you can get a perfect tear on paper and do a great walk back tune and still have to move the rest for broadheads.
I had a similar problem when switching to my Montec G5 from field points. I was always 4 inches high and left with the braodheads. This year I heard about ''French Tuning'' and give it a try. It worked, after that my broadheads were hitting Bull's Eye same spot as the field tips... ...
thank you both. I did some research and adjusted the rest and re-did the French tune. I shot broad heads and field tips during same session and think I have found the happy middle ground.
just out of curiosity. what is your "Long" shot for your french tune? Easy to remember... 10 feet and 10 yards
I do 20yrds, and 70yrds. I always make sure i am good at my farthest hunting distance. The way i see it. 20 feet isnt really enough to know that your rest and pins are perfectly aligned. even 20 to 40 yards will show being off at 100 yards. I just had that issue a few weeks ago when i got my new sight. at 100 yards i was off to the right by almost 6" and when i was dead on at my 20 and 40. Mine was a 2nd axis sight issue, but it applies the same
I think I started off wrong. I had just put the whisker on the bow and had it too far to the right (I'm a south paw). at three yds I was able to French tune my pins but ended up way to far off center of string/riser. To correct it, I moved rest back to the center line on my riser, moved the pins and started over. After doing that and taking bow outside to my targets I shot 1 arrow at the field tip target, dead on, then shot a broad head at my broad head target, dead on. French tuning seems like a good deal, but you need to be at a good starting point which I was not.
PROPS FOR LEFTIES!!! We rock. aside from the fact that nothing is ever in stock for us at archery shops.. haha try bare shaft tuning. iv been doing it for a while. its more of a recurve thing i think, but if you are dead on with bare shaft. you will be dead on with broadhead from what iv found .
i will bare shaft at 20 to get a good starting point. then work it back to 40. once i have my bare shaft in the same group at 40 as my fletched arrows. I will walk back to 70 yards and shoot fletched arrows. if im grouping dead center im happy. but it is really about what you are comfortable shooting at. if you have a 1' group at 70 yards then it wont help you. In theory your bare shaft should always land in the same spot as your fletched arrows. but i dont find that to be the case. so i just use a combo of bareshaft and walk back tuning. then if needed ill walk back tune broadheads to field points. Iv only been hunting for a year so i havent had a whole lot of experience with tuning broadheads. by this time next year im sure ill perfect my broadhead tune even more. Just try all sorts of different things to tune. find what works best for you. everyone is different. The first time i really paper tuned was a couple weeks ago. it makes for a good starting point. but thats really all i see using paper as. after that walkback and bareshaft are much more practical ways to tune. (What i call bareshaft tuning. is to shoot a arrow without fletching with a few fletched arrows.they will group together if your centershot is good. if not the fletchings will correct the flight of your arrows and you will see your bare shaft off)
