There's a big traditional IBO shoot here in Indiana at the end of the month and I'm planning on getting a traditional bow.
However, I've been looking high and low but can't find answers to my questions. So I'll ask here specifically.
My plans for the bow:
- Learn to shoot traditional. I will not be using a sight, instinct only
- Possibly hunt and 3D shoot with eventually, might be at least a year, if not longer
- Will be taking a lot of shots with it. I like to shoot almost every day
1. Recurve or long bow? Yup, basic question but still unsure. I really like the option to take down a 3 piece recurve though.
2. Length? I'm 5'8" and have a 28" draw length
I'll probably try a few different ones from 35# to 45# to see what draw weight I want to go with.
Camo carbon Hoyt bow
Light Easton arrows
I would be looking at an ILF setup.
Hoyt Excel with a set of cheapo 25 - 35# limbs
go recurve and a 58-60 " bow would be a great starting point.
you could put a real nice package together for around $400 new or less used.
set it up to shoot of the shelf and focus on form and developing good habits.
i bought a samic sage in 35# and it was a great bow.
since then i sold the bow and bought a ILF riser with several sets of limbs in various weights.
after several months of shooting i am more than confident in hunting it this season.
good luck they are fun and very addicting.
Trad is a lotta fun once you get the hang of it, nothing impossible to do but just takes some time to learn, once it gets in your blood its all over but the cry'n.
you probaly couldnt go wrong with either a longbow or recurve, but recurves shoot some bit faster & I think with less vibrations to the hand, you can find a good used name brand bow (Bear ,browning, shakespear, matrin ect...) for cheap ($100/200) , I wouldnt go anymore than 50 pounds draw weight to start, one of the worst things to do is over bow yourself, your ams will get tierd & your accuracy will suffer then you'll get dishearted with it.
Your draw length is perfect for a trad bow, 90% of them are made so that at the 28 inch mark the bow reaches it manufactuered draw weight, say if its a 45 pound draw weight when the archer draws the bow & reaches the 28 inch draw length mark it should be rite at 45 pounds, if you draw past (or less than) the 28 inch mark you can add/subtract about 3 pounds per inch of the manufactured draw weight.
A good how to DVD is the MASTERS OF THE BARE BOW series, think thers a total of 4 or 5 of them but volume 1 has about anything yo'll need to know to get you started, sevral big names in the trad shooting/hunting business teaches you a bunch of shooting styles they use, offer tips on hunting & qeuipment, its a really good dvd & has plenty of usable info.
Try do'n a search on craigslist,ebay,on this site and on of my faves is TRADGANG.COM, check your local archery shops also, at least they mite can put you onto a trad shoot near you, I know if you can find a shoot ther will be plenty of people who will let you test drive ther bows & offer to help you out.
Keep us posted as to how it works out for you, glad to see anyone take intrest in trad shooting, its very rewarding stuff.
Last edited by FOXFIRE; 07-07-2013 at 01:15 PM.
Its a twang thang,some people get it, some people dont .
I can't thank you guys enough for the info! I'm sure I'll have more questions, especially regarding the arrows, haven't looked into those at all.
Camo carbon Hoyt bow
Light Easton arrows
Modern recurves and longbows are the same. They just look different. You really can't go wrong. I like highly reflex/deflex longbows because they look cool and are much quieter because the string doesn't hit the limb upon release. I would recommend getting a 58 or 60 inch bow. I am 6' and shoot a 60" bow. It's ok to start light and work your way up. If you start out to heavy your form will suffer. Hope this helps!
There is a place for all of God's creatures...Right next to the potatoes and gravy.