Broadhead Shot Placement vs. Field Points

Discussion in 'Bowhunting Talk' started by dpnc, Dec 24, 2010.

  1. dpnc

    dpnc Newb

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    I just had my bow tuned up. It is a Bear Truth 2 and I have had it about 2 years, shooting only in the back yard but planning to hunt with it in January.

    When I shoot field points at 20 yards, the bow shoots to my point of aim. Before tuning, the broadheads did too.

    Now the broadheads shoot 3 inches low and 5 inches left. Consistently.

    I am using 100 grain field points and 100 grain fixed broadheads.

    I have been careful to eliminate shooter error. I am a newbie for sure, but I can consistently group the field points in about a 3" circle on the target with the occasional flyer.

    Any thoughts on why the broadheads might be going to a different spot? They also group together, just 5 inches left and 3 inches low.

    Any suggestions for figuring this out or adapting?

    David
     
  2. DriveTacks

    DriveTacks Weekend Warrior

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    i had the same issue with new NAP thunderheads this year, wasnt sure what to do, called my bow shop, and they said i would have to adjust my sights to where the broadheads were shooting. Just sucks because i will have to reset my pins for the field tips for the off season again. if there is another fix i would love to hear about it. The guy at the shop said if they are grouping that is where they are hitting, and i would have to adjust to them...
     
  3. carpsniper

    carpsniper Weekend Warrior

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    How well do you trust the person who "tuned" your bow. If they were hitting together before, I don't think I'd have changed anything. But it's a little late for that.
    If it was me and they are hitting consistantly, I'd move my sights, hunt and then figure it out afterwards. JMO
     
  4. WesternMdHardwoods

    WesternMdHardwoods Weekend Warrior

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    So much for a "Pro" shop..!?

    I have learned that there is no reason why you shouldnt be able to get any broadhead to hit with your fp's. Thats with the correct setup!

    I will see if I can find Easton's broadhead tuning chart, it is pretty self explanatory and spot on.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2010
  5. michaelp

    michaelp Die Hard Bowhunter

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    You have come to the right place, alot of guys on here are great with this sort of thing, give it a day or two and they will have you in the game.
     
  6. dpnc

    dpnc Newb

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    Thanks for the advice on tuning. I will give that a try and report back.

    David
     
  7. GMMAT

    GMMAT Grizzled Veteran

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    Everything they've done (work and advice) so far is wrong. I'd find a different "pro shop".

    I'm not kidding.

    Based on the information given, we/you can't trust that center shot is correct. Since we don't know that, everything else is moot.

    Take it somewhere else.....and tell them what you told us.
     
  8. Schultzy

    Schultzy Grizzled Veteran

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    This!
     
  9. MGH_PA

    MGH_PA Moderator

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    Exactly.

    Assuming you are properly spined (again, don't know since we don't know what # your bow is, final arrow weight, or what spine your arrows are), you should always be able to get your FP's and BH's hitting the same POI.

    Download a copy of the guide in my signature, and read through it from start to finish. Some of it doesn't pertain to you, as it's a guide setup for both compound release (CR), compound fingers (CF), and Recurve. Like Jeff said, the most likely culprit (assuming spine isn't an issue) is your centershot. You need to start there and work your way up to BH tuning (this is where the guide comes in). If you don't feel comfortable doing this, take it to a different pro shop and talk them through your issue.

    Out of curiosity, what is your draw weight, arrow length, and arrow weight?
     
  10. MeanV2

    MeanV2 Weekend Warrior

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    Definitely get some help from someone who knows what they are doing, and then begin a process in learning how to do your own tuning.

    You'll be much happier in the long run. There is no satisfaction quite like shooting a well tuned rig you tuned yourself and honestly in the end No one can do it as good as you can yourself.

    Dan
     
  11. dpnc

    dpnc Newb

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    OK. Quite a newb here, so be patient with me.

    The Bow is a Bear Truth 2 with the draw weight set to the maximum for my bow, which is 60 lbs. (haven't measured it, but this was my request of the pro shop, which has a good reputation around here, and is the only place around except for Bass Pro and Gander, etc..)

    My arrow length is 29" and I am shooting a 100 grain fixed broadhead and 100 grain field points. The have two inch twister vanes if that makes any difference.

    I just got up and got two arrows. The original dozen arrows are labled Beeman 400 Black Max and say 9.6 gpi. If this means 9.6 grains per inch, then I guess a 29 inch arrow weighs about 278 grains?

    Of course I broke a a few of those so when I took my bow in to have it checked out, I bought a half dozen more arrows.

    The other 6 (5 of which are used for the broadheads as it turns out) are Beeman 400 Bone Collector and they say 9.0 gpi. 9 x 29 = 261 grains per arrow, right?

    This is definitely the first time I have noticed that this specification is different. I had to put on my reading glasses to distinguish the difference between the .0 and the .6.

    The Black Max has apparently been discontinued so they sold me the Bone Collectors instead with the assurance that they would shoot the same.

    Also, I said I had my bow tuned, and I am not sure if I was accurate in describing it that way.

    I have shot a good bit in the back yard, and part of the wrapping on the string started to fray, so in preparation for a likely hunt in January, I took it in and had the string fixed. Not replaced. They told me what they did to it but I cannot remember what they said. When I got home, the field points were hitting exactly the same as before.

    I guess I just assumed that when they fixed the string they "tuned it up". Sorry if that description made this harder to solve.

    I can move the broadheads back to the same shafts at the field points and see if the problem disappears.

    Anything else I need to do that you can think of?

    I would like to thank everybody here for their help. Much appreciated. I will read through the guide and begin to learn about tuning.

    David
     
  12. KodiakArcher

    KodiakArcher Die Hard Bowhunter

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