I took my bow to a shop to have it tuned. All they did was shoot it through paper at point blank range, took 5 minutes. Now I'm new to this, this is my 2nd bow. But shouldn't it be more to it than that? I just want it done right. Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
Ensure that the cams are in time and that your rest and knock point is level, kisser button and peep sight are in the correct spot and that's about it until you start your fine tuning adjustments Friends don't let friends hunt with guns
did someone from the shop shoot it or did you? did they make sure that the bow was in spec? if you answer "no" to those, then yes, there is more to it.
Like J.H. said they should have had you shoot it. Why? Well because people can hold a bow in a different way that will impact how it tunes. I am going to be honest many shops will paper tune it and send you on your way. Guys will shoot field points for awhile and think they are solid and then just before season slap on a broadhead and realize that they are 2 inches high and to the right or something. Additionally if the bow is new you want to put a few shots through it before getting serious with tuning. Meaning like a couple hundred at least. This will give the strings time to stretch if they are going too. After that you can spec tune, paper tune and then broadhead tune if you are going to hunt with it. Spec tuning is basically setting the bow to its factory specs, that would be the axel to axel (ATA), brace and poundage. Paper tuning will get your center shot close and then broadhead tuning will make sure your broadheads hit close to your field points. At bare minimum make sure you broadhead tune.
These are the steps that I take that work for me. Others may have some better ideas that can help you more. 1. Make sure that my cams are in time and both draw stops hit at the same time. 2. Make sure my nock point/D-loop, kisser button, and peep are where I want them. I allow enough vertical adjustment in my rest so that I do not have to move my nock point on my string. 3. Check center shot and arrow level. 4. Shoot through paper at about six (6) feet to get a good hole. 5. French tune between 3 yards and 10 yards. 6. Walk back tune my broadheads.
Word homies! You have to be a bit of a nag at many shops or like they said they will push you out the door, I usually do a general tune with new strings and shoot about 50 arrows a night for about a couple of weeks then really get things dialed in after that. Whatever broad head you are going to use buy an extra set and use them specifically for tuning a month out and practice with them until you hit the stand that way there is no difference between what you practice with and what you SHWACK with! Friends don't let friends hunt with guns
That's what they did was paper tune it and send me on my way. I bought the bow a couple of months ago and shot quiet a few arrows through it. Next time I will make sure they do it right. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
Yes, we are all confused. Or are we just not "in tuned" enough to understand? Friends don't let friends hunt with Guns! (That includes cross bows)
No seriously he is from Croatia he probably used a translation program sometimes it comes out screwy.
I've learned a ton on on these forums so if you go through a bunch of the forums on here you can learn a ton otherwise the next best thing is going to be Youtube. Most of the tuning I do myself now unless I need a bow press. Luckily I got a good mathews guy here that I can go too and he can do what I want done for me. Go on Youtube and search on Walkback tuning, French tuning, and Broadhead tuning Most shops will do a paper tune but honestly that is just a small start to getting your bow shooting like it really could. Once I learned alot of this stuff its crazy how accurate you can be with today's bows.
Since you are new to this as you previously stated, we shouldnt expect you to know how to do all of this stuff or expect you to go get the stuff to do it, the draw board and alot of this other stuff is just preference so what i would recommend you do is. 1. make sure your cams are in time with each other this is important, you can find the timing hole or mark on your cam. 2. paper tune which is what the shop did for you. 3. sight in your bow 4. walk back tune or french tune (youtube this) 5. make sure you have correct spine arrows, if you are in between like i am i usually go with a bit stiffer spine. 6. practice practice practice, 7. I always take a picture of where my sights and rests are at as far as adjustments that way when i go on a trip or drive to my land i can check the marks to make sure that things didnt move. I hope this helps and is a little less intimidating then having to learn all of this new stuff that everyone thinks new people should be doing because quite frankly it ends up frustrating newer bow hunters and then they dont enjoy it. keep it simple for now.
sorry guys for bad writing...dont get me wrong..just want to tell that everybody must learn himself tune bow...on the net you have everyting..just read...(i dont mean on you trial153)
Just watched how to French tune a bow, seems simple enough. I'm going to give it a try tomorrow, thanks for the info. Sent from my iPhone using Bowhunting.com Forums
Doing it from ur home is always better. There r three ways to learn how to: 1) YouTube 2) Go To ur local bow shop for info 3) right here on the webpage Sent from my KYOCERA-C6745 using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
