My draw length is 22 inches. Therefore, any bow I use is going to be "weak" and slow. For hunting deer and larger, what arrow weight do I need? My bow is a Diamond Razor Edge, presently set at 53 pounds. (I hope to work up to 60 pounds by 2019) Soon to be added to the arsenal is a Southwest Archery Spider 60 pound draw take-down recurve, for a hunting legal 45 pound effective draw at my draw length. I want to be able to use either bow for whatever tags I can get here; Deer, Elk, Antelope, Mountain Lion, Big Horn Sheep, Mountain Goat, maybe Black and/or Grizzly Bear ...
Cut on contact Broadhead would be my choice. Prank ya two blade maybe a two blade with bleeders. And I wouldn’t go any lower then 450 grains with your current set up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
450 grains would be a nice weight, gonna need a brass insert and weights plus a heavy point weight to achieve it with arrows that short. You wont have a ton of range but your arrow will be hitting like a sack of bricks.
Bought six new 25 inch shaft Beman ICS Whiteout 400 spine arrows today. 480 grains total weight with a 125 grain field point. (actually, 479.4 to 480.1 grains. Consistent enough for something like me.) Had them use 100 grain brass inserts. I think they are going to work.
Did you bareshaft test that arrow? Impact looks consistently left. Take a bareshaft and 3 fletched and shoot them in groups till you' re confident of the pattern. Make note of it. Do it again now make note of nock high/low and left/right.
No bare shaft possible. They were already fletched and cut to 25 inches. I got a discount since they don't have much call for arrows this short. Supposedly I "need" 500 spine arrows, these are 400 spine, maybe that is making a difference?
Very hard to answer that accurately. If your bow has no defects and is set within factory specs you should be able to shoot just about any arrow. The problem with low short draw is that you shouldn't really follow charts because you need the weight to gain the momentum out of the bow and you can't do that with a 300-350 grain arrow which is what you'll end up with if you follow the charts. So, the fact you have a 400 is good because it's inherently/most likely heavier. Based on your arrow build, you already know this. A lot of people think optimal spine is still a requirement. It really isn't as long as you tune the arrow to the bow. And that's what bareshaft tuning does because you're adjusting the arrow based on it's reaction coming off the bow. To me, that is optimal. If you have a dozen I would sacrifice at least one and strip the fletching so you can get them tuned up properly.
Only six so far. They do have another six already cut to length that I'll probably be able to get next month. They don't have much call for 25 inch arrows, so I have less than zero idea why they made up a dozen precut to that length. Having never done so before, how do I tune the arrow? What range do I shoot the bare shaft and fletched? 10 yards? 20 yards? (The only range I have access to is a 20 yard indoor, but they do have a 10 yard line, and a roll-a-round backstop for shorter range and/or crossbows) Is it a matter of turning the nock? Angle and height of the fletching? Does the arrow rest make a difference? I use a whisker biscuit. I don't build my own arrows. I don't have the equipment, the space for the equipment, nor the knowledge I presume is required to properly build them. (The guy at the shop who's sole job is to build/repair arrows makes it look easy. However, he's been doing it for over 40 years.)
Theres a lot of good info out there on tuning a bow/ arrow. I start with getting everything on my bow in spec (ata, brace height, weight, length). Next I set center shot for my bow and get a neutral cam lean and start with my cams synced 100%. Next is paper tune, then walk back tune, then broad head tune. Being that you don't have access to an arrow saw, doing tuning related to arrow spine will be difficult. Look up H.I.L.L tuning by John Dudley. If you cant get an arrow to tune, you can try turning the nock but some arrows just aren't going to tune how you want. I usually get 10 out of a dozen to fly how I want with .001 arrows I would NOT worry about bare shafts unless your form is 100% consistent shot after shot, day after day. You'll end up chasing your tail and create more problems than you had to begin with.
I agree with everything except not worrying about bareshaft tuning. The process starts at 3 yards. All the way up to 10 the form "factor" doesn't really cause problems. It's bareshaftingg at 15+ that gets tricky. I would aim to do this if I were you. If nothing else you will grow and learn as an archer. I've been holding back this comment but it seems rather fitting right now; I truly believe every archery should build his/her own arrows. It helps understand what is required for good flight and more importantly, it allows you to make adjustments to tune and troubleshoot in a fluid manner. What I mean by that is that let's say you need a 1/4 trimmed off because you're a little left on impact (left is weak and cutting the shaft stiffens it). Well, if you have to wait a week or more the details in you mind start to get lost. When you get that arrow back you might not recall how much left it was impacting. Now you can't easily decipher if you need to cut another 1/4 or just an 1/8. It's a loose example but all that to imply, learning to do this for yourself is the next logical step in growing as an aecher. Don't be afraid to take it.
The body and mind are willing. The bank ... not so much. (Retired, fixed gross income of under $800/month) I hope I don't have to trim anything off my arrows. The shaft length is already at 24.5 and 25 inches. 400 spine on both. (395.5 grain for the 24.5's and 480 grain for the 25's, both with 125 grain arrowheads. The 25 inch have 100 grain brass inserts.)
Left of what?? The center of the bullseye by 1"? I think you are getting way ahead. No BH just field points. Do you have any idea if this is his first try at archery? Maybe he is not sighted in yet. Why not just move the pins a bit left? Cut off a 1/4" of arrow? I didn't see when he was interesting at shooting competition. I have never shot a bare shaft and can get BH and FP to hit the same at 40 yards. And I only will shoot a deer out to 30, So I just go hunting. Actually I never shot one farther than 25. And I have shot many in the last 40+ years. Afishhunter: How long have you been shooting a bow? Do you know how/what steps to tune a bow? Have you ever shot a broadhead? Do you want to spend hours with your setup? Or do your want to spend more time hunting? Some background on your skills/knowledge would help. Many people know a great amount here and may assume you know a lot too. I think your arrows (with the brass inserts) will work great. If you are happy with your groups with field points, try a BH and see where they land in comparison. Make sure you spin the arrow with the BH to see if it's true before you shoot it. Let us know. Lots of good people here will to help.
I always love it when I've been working with someone and a guy steps in like this. You can't even realize what I wrote was an example...
A lot of guys who shoot bows at targets for a living have never shot a bare shaft.. I would not worry about it, you don't shoot bare shafts at deer but you do shoot broadheads and those do require tuning
A bareshaft is an essential key to knowing the true dynamic reaction the arrow has coming off the bow. Fletching masks that. Guys shooting at targets don't care about penetration or flight with broadheads. I find it totally contradicting that you talk about broadhead flight and at the same time discard bareshaft tuning. Getting your arrow flying straight with a bareshaft is the first part in broadhead tuning. You can stay in the dark if you want but I've been bareshaft tuning for over 30 years and there is no substitute.
