I started paper tuning my bow and now shooting what folks call a bullet hole from 6-15 feet. This is after hours of fighting with a tail low tear. Even at perfectly level, it had about a 1 inch tear. Sounds good I guess however, now my arrow nocking point is below my rest. I can not find a lot of sources that say this is normal or OK. I found a lot of sources that say level or high is normal. Hoping I did not cause a problem here. Next step is to take it outside and shoot 20,30,40,50...then shoot broadheads and see what happens. Should I be concerned about a low nock placement for my specific bow? Bow setup: Diamond Iceman flx 2010 56lbs, 29inch draw Maxima Red 250's Whisker Biscuit rest Some other random facts: - I've never really done a lot of bow tuning experiments but, figured what the heck. I did a walkback last year and made some good adjustments to the rest. I bought some bow tuning equipment and a paper target...enough to become dangerous and get me into this situation. I attempted to check the tiller but, did not really do it right and need to learn more here. I did check the timing and that is OK. Arrow passed over the top 1/3 of the berger holes. - I did not take a baseline of my arrow rest or nocking point prior to fooling around. - I did try to look for contact and experiment with up and down rest position. - I know paper tuning is not the end all be all...I just wanted to be "in tune" with my bow and never tried before.
I wouldn't expect the nocking point to be low. I'm thinking your cams or limbs might not be set right.
First thing I would do is check the tiller. Measure from the riser to the string at two equal spots on each end of the bow. The measurements should match. I might go so far as to bottom out both limb bolts and back them back out equally just to be sure. I'm not at all sure if this would help but it's where I would start. Just out of curiosity, what did you use to measure your nocking point?
Leave it if it's shooting well. The most likely reason for your nock height position is because of your nock travel on a single cam bow. All single cams have uneven nock travel because your pulling off an idler. So with that is mind if you shooting well enough to get good tears at 6 and 15 feet and your bow tunes at distance. Leave the nock where it is!!
Appreciate all the replies. I will double check the timing however, it is between the 5 and 7 marks, which from what I have read, is where it should be for an Iceman. I'm hoping to shoot outside a little tomorrow and see what's up. Did not have time today. I will check the tiller as well after shooting. BB4tw - I have a level for my arrow and string. I did not measure the position however, know I brought it down below level till the tear was good. Will work to get an actual measurement. I do not have a bow square. Trial153 - I could only find one other reference saying the same thing you just stated. i'm hoping this is the case!
The reason I asked about your measuring method is because it possible that your reading could be off. Maybe you are actually at level. I didn't think about you having a single cam. With my current bow, I can set up with a slightly nock high starting point but by the time I'm done moving the rest during broadhead tuning, I'm usually closer to level. Possibly a little low like you. I've never measured it once I have it tuned. You may be better off listening to Trial.
Have you checked that your levels are precise? There are some knock off RS levels around these days that are not accurate. Things to check... If your loop is creating nock pinch this can cause a low tear. It would be hard to notice while drawing your bow if nock pinch is happening through a biscuit. You should have about 1/16" of wiggle room for you nock inside your loop. On the inside of your limbs where they meet your limb pocket, there are numbers pressed into the limb. Make sure all four limbs have the same number.
Paper tuning can take time when u do it yourself. My proshopper tunes it without the vanes. Don't ur proshop paper tune it. It wouldn't suprise me if ur proshop doesn't paper tune ur bow
Take a measurement from both axles to the back of the string. I'd bet the bottom cam measurement is larger. This throws off using a level on the string for leveling the bow. Tiller is for bows with dual cams, short risers and long limbs. It's better to use the front of the limb pockets to level your bow. I just use an arrow set against the arrow shelf to check a nocked arrows level to the bow. I also set one against the side of the riser to set centershot for a start, this aligns the arrow to the riser. Since your bow has a top yoke, you can yoke tune left/right tears and not have to move your rest. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Also, I just want to confirm how you know the nock is lower. Do you have a bow square? I completely broke down and retuned my bow to learn how to do it and when I eyeballed my nock/rest level I thought it was very close to level. When my bow square came in the mail I used it to verify and I found my nock was actually much lower than I thought.
Threw my bow square away. They're a waste of money to me. They base everything off the string. Nock needs to be based off level to the riser in some way. Paralleling the nocked arrow to one set against the shelf, level to the string stop rod, or perpendicular to the front of the limb pockets are a few ways. IF you have equal tiller measurements then you can use a bow square effectively. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
OK - Quick update here. Last week during this thread's discussion, I amazon-ed myself a bow square. What I would have sworn was a low knock based upon my eye sight and RS (plastic) level....appears to be a level to 1/8 high knock. I was really suprised. No other way to put it though. Looks like I was wrong on my initial assessment. My guess is that what I thought was level, was not. I think you can even see that in the pics below. Two pics. Field testing out to 50 yards looks really good. I shot my G5's out to 30 yards and they are shooting the same as field points. With the rest and nock point change, I did have to readjust my sights quite a bit. My groups inside of 30 yards look tighter. I'm really happy with the changes and tuning thus far!
It definitely does look nock-low. It appears the shaft is level with the Berger holes though. It could just be the angles of the riser, rest, and roller guard throwing it off. I wouldn't think your tiller would be that far off and still shoot bullet holes.
