I cant seem to get bullet holes after my new strings have been put on. Shooting elite synergy at 64lbs 27" draw with da torch 400spine 26" arrows weighing 340grains finished weight. Moving my rest to the right doesnt fix the tear and before the string change it paper tuned perfect. It shoots good groups but i see a little tail wobble every once in while. Is it possible the new string performs better so needs a heavier spine or something? I tried turning my poundage down to 58# or so but still the same result
whats your cam lean and timing like? were the strings just slapped on or did a bow tech make sure your bow was back in spec? also check your grip to make sure it is right.
Yea strings were put on at a bow shop. They worked with me putting bow back into spec and made sure timing was good. Cam lean i haven't looked at yet i will check that for sure. It may be grip but i try pretty hard to mind my grip and never grab or torque. Doesnt sound like a spine issue i guess?
Nah its not going to be spine if they were shooting good on the last strings and it looks like the correct spine for your specs. I would check out your lean or maybe upload a picture of your grip because it does sound like a form issue
I will do both after work today. Might be a stupid question but do you check lean on full draw or not or both?
Where im shooting a QAD ultra rest i was told to always shoot cock vane out. I cant get it to paper tune very well but i can walk back/french tune well but my rest goes right and with cock vane straight up the right fletch is just touching my cables so i tweak my nock just slightly to get clearance. Ill take a pic of this later as well and will try the cock vane out as well
You're going to want to check both. Look at your pre lean at rest by placing an arrow along your cam parallel to the string. if it isn't exactly parallel with the string you have some pre lean which can or can not be a big deal. What really matters is at full draw. If you have a draw board or are good at eye balling it your self its pretty easy otherwise you might need someone else to help you look at it.
So i checked the lean and have a few pics of my grip for you to check out. Had a slight amount of pre lean. On the length of my arrow it was off by about 1/8" by the end of the arrow.
Form looks good. On elites, being that it is a true binary cam system, cam lean is less prevalent of an issue.. What is the center shot measure?
This is why I like bareshaft tuning...strip the fletching off an arrow and try to get it to hit same POI as your field points. I find that paper tuning is also sensitive to the distance you are shooting through paper. If you were paper tuning at 2 yards prior to changing strings, and 3 yards after the new strings were on you'd likely get a different tear through paper.
I mean ideally you want your arrow to be dead straight no matter how far away so shouldn't matter.. I get what you're saying but you would still want it shooting bullets and that makes bare shaft tuning easier that starting with bs tune.
Thats in spec. I would take it to the shop that had your strings put on and go through this process.. Elite Tuning Guide I was working on an elite last night that had a similar issue and I just went back and started from scratch with this list. Normally we just get in hoyts and mathews and not too many elites but this simplified the binary cam system since I hadn't had much experience on it.
You were able to correct the problem with the one you were working on by starting from scratch? Did you figure out what it ended up being or just through the process it worked itself out? Its just frustrating because it tuned so well before and stayed in tune.
They should be im guessing about 600 or 700 shots since the string change. Im going to go through that tuning guide when i get time for it.
