Hey guys, So my bow is dialed right in out to 40 yards. At 20 yards I can put them all in a inch circle just to give you an idea how dialed in I have it. I have it paper tuned at the pro shop and i've done it myself at home just to confirm i'm still getting a good tear which I am. As many of you know from other posts, I've been possibly talking about shooting the slick trick standards this year. I decided to throw on one of my old 100 grain NAP Thunderheads just to see how they shoot since the No cam htr is suppose to have very minimal amount of tuning etc. Well, I shot 4 arrows and it was consistently about 4 inches to the right with a noticable spin in flight. This is the same **** I dealt with about 4 years ago when I was shooting them but I was far less educated on bow tuning etc. The question I have, is if I spend the 40 bucks on the slick tricks will i have to deal with this same stupid **** on getting the broadheads to fly straight with my field points? If so, I think i'll just go with the Rage heads that I have used the past 2 years. Thoughts?
Paper tuning just gets you close. I think you might have to move your rest left 1/32" at a time until they group together. If they go farther apart go the opposite way. This is what I read from Eastons tuning guide. I shot slick tricks good but the best groups I've got with fixed bade were with sonic broadheads by American broadhead company.
Yeah look up broadhead tuning, thats what you should be doing. The broadheads will probably be about the same as far as being off 4 inches
Slick Tricks fly good but there is no guarantee what you are going to get till you shoot them. PM me your address and I'll mail you one to try. Id send you more but thats the only one I had left. And ouch Slick Trick getting bought must have bumped up the price. I used to get a pack of 3 for like 25. Now they have 4 for 39.
Not disagreeing with you but I find it hard to believe. I'm also fortunate to have a proshop within 10 mins that has a worldclass archer. (Currently ranked top 3 I think in the world). They definately know their stuff and are not out to just get your money. They tuned my bow and I also re-did the paper tune at home and got perfect tears as well. The arrows are coming out of the bow just fine. I've had issues with the thunderheads in the past and I know others who have had issues as well since they are a higher profile fixed head. I think thats why they were always a better head for aluminum arrows versus carbon arrows. I personally have never even seen a slick trick head in person and just going by reviews and others recommendations and was more or less curious if they would fly like the thunderheads or if I would have an easier time with them since they are a lower profile head. It was frustrating at the time when I was shooting, but honestly i'm learning a ton. If I remember correctly now that I think about it. When I was using the thunderheads back then, I had to switch to the 125 grain heads to get them to fly better. Totally forgot about that.
Are you using the ubar with the thunderheads. If you are using carbon arrows you have to use the ubar for accuracy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have had perfect tears but when I bareshaft or walk back tuned I still had to make corrections. To me paper is just a starting point, not the ending point for tuning. I do not even use paper anymore. I walk back tune to ensure center shot is correct, then I bareshaft, then I shoot broadheads. Seriously if you look up broadhead tuning, you will be able to get those heads flying great.
I did not, however a nice guy from above is sending me a slick trick head to shoot since those are the ones that I would like to hunt with. I'm going to take it to my grandpas since he has the thing you can you spin it with to make sure everything is aligned when I test it out. From their i'll make my evaluation if I like them or not and/or make some rest adjustments like you guys mentioned. If I had the guess the slicks tricks wont fly like the thunderheads did. Worse case scenario i'll stick with rage since I have half a dozen of them still. I just have to be extra carefull on my shot choice. Thank you for all your help. All you guys have been great since I joined this site.
I have always had good luck with Thunderheads.....85 & 100 Grains. Great flying heads. Hope you get your rig running good
Just like a gun shooting a certain round better than others, a bow is the same way. Just because you are on target with one broadhead doesn't mean you will be with another. Different projectiles (different broadheads) fly differently even if they weigh the same. Also, even though different broadheads may weigh the same, where they actually hold their weight can change your F.O.C. As others said, paper tuning is just a start, try walk back tuning with the broadheads you intend to use. Another thing you may want to do is weigh each arrow and weigh each broadhead and put the heavier broadhead on the lighter arrow, and vice versa. This will make them all as close to being the same weight as possible.
Like others have said broadhead tuning is essential. You can shoot bullet holes in paper and walk back tune to your satisfaction but blades on a broadhead usually don't lie. Spin test them first to make sure you don't have a bent/misaligned head. From there it may be just a subtle adjustment of your arrow rest to get them flying the same as your field tips. That's your goal, the sight can be re-adjusted once you achieve that. Good advice given above!!
There is no way all broadheads will hit the same, no matter how well your bow is tuned! Petersons does tests all the time with a tuned bow in a shooting machine, Some heads hit close to a fieldpoint, some hit farther away. There is no way to stop a broadhead from planeing. If my broadhead hits where my fieldpoints do I consider myself lucky.
Well heres a little update. Been doing some reading on things you all have mentioned. Since my broadheads were shooting about 4 inches right I moved the rest to the left. In a matter of 10 mins I had the NAP thunderheads hitting dead on at 20 yards. The only thing is the field points were now hitting about 4 inches to the left. I didnt want to mess things up completely so I resighted back in for the fieldpoints. I also went and made my own Center shot guage for like 7 bucks by watching this video on youtube. Turns out after doing my adjustment to the left on the rest it is more center now than what it was. I think thats why my arrow was essentially barrel rolling since it wasnt close to center. (It was off by about an 1/8" ) which I think was too much. In about a week i'll be able to try out the slick trick. I think the lower profile head compared to the thunderhead would fly better for me where I could get them close to fieldpoints
I found another trick in my box and decided to go shoot it out of the No Cam before I ordered a 10 pack. I stopped at the 40 yard mark because there was something on the Glendel target and decided why not try there. Shot the Slick trick first and then shot the field point and hear a click. Didn't think much of it till I got closer to the target. Doh!! More luck than skill I assure you but other than wrecking a perfectly good arrow gives you a warm and fuzzy your equipment is in order.
