Am I the only one who prefers bare shaft tuning over paper tuning? Is there advantages to paper tuning over bare shaft? I feel like my bow is perfectly tuned if I can hit bare shaft with my fletched arrows out to forty yards, is this a safe assumption? Let's here it super tuners. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'll add that if you start shooting groups with bare shaft you can really see mistakes in form and shot execution from shot to shot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nope, you're not the only one. I prefer bare shaft tuning. And I also agree that a bare shaft will show flaws in form. I often have two bare shafts that I shoot just to keep me honest with my form.
This is my only issue with bareshafts. They are so finicky to shooter form and execution as well as wind that it can be very frustrating for the average guy. I utilize paper but centershot is set via french tune in my garage and then I yoke tune with paper(at multiple distances) and that typically has bareshafts with fletched. This only takes a few minutes.
Once I get my bow put back together I'm going to be hitting the bare shaft tuning hard. I'll let you know how it goes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Try my method before going to bareshaft and you will probably find the tuning will be much quicker and easier when going to the bareshafts. Draw vertical line on target(use a small carpenter level to get it perfect) and french tune to that line at 3 feet and 20 feet. Get it perfect. (Lay all pins on the line) Yoke tune to clean up the tear in paper at 3', 6', and 9'. Then go check your bareshaft.
Could you explain yoke tuning? And I use a single pin HHA so it may be a little different. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
http://forums.bowhunting.com/tech-talk/60566-paper-tuning-made-easy.html You do need access to a bow press
I consider myself a good shooter and I honestly get frustrated with bareshaft tuning. So much so that I don't usually do it. I use Tfox's method and only shoot a couple of bare shafts just to ensure that I'm close. Its so sensitive to human induced error that I often get false readings. French and paper tune in combination with yoke twisting is the way to go. My rig right now is dialed to shoot field points and broad heads in the same group out to 60 yards. Good enough to kill any whitetail in my neck of the woods.
I've shot with some of the best archers in the world and discussed alot of different methods of tuning and such and never heard one of them say they bareshaft. (That's not to say there aren't some) Bareshaft is the ultimate in tuning but is a pain in the behind, even for the the best.
I guess once my bow is put back together I'll find out. I had no problem bare shaft tuning it before, except for stripping the screws on my limb driver from adjusting them so much. Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I always do a quick check with paper but then go to bare shaft. Then kind of a modified French tune. I start close to get same impact. Then move back a little . Then further and further getting the same impact. Bare shaft will show form errors. That can be good and can be bad if you are consistent
