Here is the best way to paper tune a bow imo. Only thing I do differently, is that I do a quick french tune in the garage to get the rest real close to dead center before starting. Notice how he doesn't move the rest. http://youtu.be/ur3hZ4wiMFs Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Interesting. I've never done much with paper tuning. I usually can get pretty close with walk-back tuning and then BH tuning. I was actually going to PM you about this, but others may benefit from this as well. How much stock do you place on form sensitive tuning methods such as paper and bareshaft tuning? It seems everyone has their own approach to tuning, and there are often multiple means to reach a similar end. I'm actually thinking of re tuning my Sentinel this spring. My plan is to put my draw board to use now that I finally have one built. I want to check to make sure my cams are synched (haven't done this with this bow yet really) then check to make sure, DL checks out accordingly. Then, since my centershot is already dialed in from walk back, I was thinking of bareshaft tuning then walk back again, and then fine tune with creep/BH tune. What is your approach to tuning from start to finish?
I don't put a lot in bareshaft tuning because it has so much to do with t the shooters ability to make a perfect shot. I will check mine from time to time and im usually good but yours may not be. Paper tuning you can actually tune the bow to a little hand torque with the yoke system and this will yield better broadhead flight, even if your form isn't perfect. He talks about group tuning and that is at the top of my list for a target rig. But I do still french and paper. I want the flight as clean as possible with broadheads. Especially at my lower poundage, helps with penetration. I slso do paper at multiple distances, unlike in the video. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I set up Visual French in garage paper (yoke) Recheck french in yard at 20 Broadhead Check multiple distances Refine if needed I'll add group tuning on a target rig but haven't set up a target rig in years. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Good stuff. I would say that most would never do this though with needing a bow press just to accomplish it. Makes me wonder how many bow shops would actually take the time to do it as well. I ended up doing the same thing with my bow this past season in an effort to get it tuned. Just helps to know someone who knows what they are doing.
What do you mean group tuning? Are you tuning nocks on arrows or just sorting them or making adjustments to the bow? I've seen eastons guide on fine tuning and micro tuning is that what you're referring to? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I paper tune to check nock height and for clearance problems. Then i use modified french tuning to set sight and rest windage. From there its sighting in the pins and good to go. I don't worry about bareshaft tuning cause I don't shoot bareshafts. Double check everything once I switch to broadheads and adjust as needed (usually just pins cause I up my arrow weight).
Keep doing what you're doing but just add the yoke paper tuning and it will clean up any kick in the arrow that will yield better broadhead flight if need be. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
My phone won't play the video so I did a quick search on yoke tuning to understand it. I always set my cams with no lean at full draw, but can see tuning them through paper would have an advantage. I have 3 bows all with different 2 cams. Older Martin with a dual cam dual yoke, E35 with binaries no yoke, and a Spyder 34 with a modified setup single yoke. Thanks for the tip.
Nice video but it doesn't help us folks shooting the Monster bows with the self-centering yoke. I'm getting a bit of a left tear in mine right now and a few minor rest adjustments didn't help at all. I put it back to dead center and I'm going to check for possible fletching clearance issues tomorrow.
Dumb question....If two people shoot the same bow and one tears perfect and the other doesn't, is that just simply hand torque?
Adjust for true center regardless. I would serve the system so it didn't float. There has to be a way. I served hoyts floating yoke many times in the past to be able to yoke tune. I will never understand why companies keep trting the floating yoke. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
The only issue with serving it in place is that you can't make any adjustments to the yoke without removing the axle and the cam. The yoke itself resides in between the limb and the cam. In any case I did some more testing yesterday and found I'm having some fletching clearance issues which is most likely my culprit on the paper tears. Both french and walk-back tune were spot on with my current centershot. Rest timing looks good so I'm going to double check nock placement to be sure I'm level. Eyeballing it looks like I'm nock low which could account for the fletching clearance problem.
They need to put some sort of adjusters in the system like was available in the old days. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
