I have the equipment and knowledge to build a wood grip for a bow (Mission) I am looking at getting this weekend. My current draw length is 27 1/2". What are you folks' thoughts on making the handle 1/2" taller effectively making the draw length longer (or riser height shorter, depending on how you want to look at it)? This would make a 310 abo bow effectively a ~315 abo bow.
I don't like the grip that is on it, being one of mission bows famous rubber glock sized grips. If I am going to replace it with one less likely to help me torque the bow, raising the handle a little would allow more velocity, about 5 fps. It is more an intellectual question than anything, I was wondering if there would be any unintended consequences.
the only reason it gets more velocity is bc you are making the grip smaller therfore your draw length longer. if you plan on doing this i would get the bow 27'' draw length so when your change the grip you get closer to your 27 1/2 draw length.
Rather than thinking of it as changing the draw length, raising the handle 1/2" should lower the brace by 1/2". This should give the effect of increasing arrow speed. The only down side I see is the balance of the bow will be off a little.
When you say "taller" or "raising the handle" do you mean making the part that your hand touches farther from the riser (closer to the sting)? Changing the grip will have no effect on that bow. It will change your DL but not the bows. If you made it 1/2" "taller" it would give you a shorter DL. The bows power stroke (and speed) will not change even if you put on a 3" thick grip. Now if you plan on getting a bow to long for you and putting on a thicker grip to give you the feel of 27.5 you will gain some. But 1/2" DL is about 1-2 fps. Not worth it to me. You know you could just take off the grip and shoot off the riser. But this still will have no effect on the bow's speed. If you don't like the grip, look at getting a Torqueless grip. I have them on all my Mathews bows. You can get low/med/high wrist (angle) and they fit perfect.
Yes I kinda figured any speed increase would be negligible. I am really tight on cash and if a Torqueless grip is in the future it would be down the road. However, I can machine a grip easy enough with the tools I have in my shop at work. Besides, it would be kinda interesting... Thanks for the input.
Speed will not change because you have not changed the powerstroke. All you will be doing is lengthening the draw by increasing the brace height. Can you you really make the grip a 1/2" shorter than it is now? And, do you need a 1/2" longer ? If no, you will be hurting your shooting, not helping. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
In effect the brace height will be shortened. Imagine holding your bow and then moving your grip 1/2" toward the string. This would effectively force the bow away from your nocking point, effectively giving you a 1/2" longer power stroke. Yes, it would change a 27 1/2" draw to a 28" draw. However, as whitetail said, the 2 fps is not worth it.
This will not change speed ANY AT ALL . The powerstroke has not been changed. All you're doing is changing the grip. Take your grip off and see if the speed changes. Unless you're going to add a thicker grip and then change the cam to make the draw length longer, nothing will change with speed. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Power stroke won't change. String is still going to stop at the same place in relation to riser, the grip might be a 1/2" either way but the bow is doing the same thing. String starts, travels and stops exactly the same way as it did before you changed the grip. What whitetail was saying is that if you bought or adjusted your bow to a longer draw, and then built a grip that was thicker to bring it back down to your draw length you would gain a little. That does work by increasing power stroke, because that's an actual draw adjustment, more string pays out Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk
I think we are saying the same thing. Correct me where I am wrong, my pull does start at the same spot, but my pull back begins at the thenar (which is now 1/2" deeper into the brace) and goes back my same pull, more of which is in the power stroke.
No. You're not modifying anything with the amount of cable or string uptake. All of the energy stored under the draw force curve has stayed the same. A bow with a thick grip still takes up and stores the same amount of energy as the same bow with no grip. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4.
If your not changing the cam, the speed will not change. ......................period Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
The distance the string travels is NOT changing there for your speed will not. Your TRU draw length is actually not changing. Measure the distance on a draw board from the Berger hole to the string at full draw. Put your new grip on the bow and measure from the Berger hole to the string on a draw board. I'd put $1,000.00 on the measurement being the same. Al you are doing is moving your bow hand back 1/2". If your theory were true about changing your "true" DL you would loose velocity due to shortening the DL. Not gain speed. Trust us on this dude, put you grip on it and shoot the chrono and see what happens. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Please please do not think I am being obstinate. I read all of the previous entry's and considered each carefully, and respect all views presented hear. Sometimes I am the obstinate one. I have no intention of deliberately endeavoring to increase the speed of my bow due to manipulation of my grip, especially given that the only increase in speed would be a couple fps. However, this has been a great learning exercise and appreciate all who have contributed. Those who grasp their forehead in pain and scream in frustration, please forgive me as understanding the physics of how a bow works is very interesting to me..... Given the "Berger Hole" (as defined as being where the arrow rest attaches to the bow) as 0 as x on a Cartesian graph, with a base grip the distance to the nock point would be x', and the point at which the arrow would be pulled to would be x'', then the initial draw stroke would be defined as x' + x''=0 + 27.5 (in my case)=27.5. Now, let us move the handle toward the string 1/2". The draw board would now read in (no, not the hated word problems!!!) word problem: Zedd adds 1/2" to his grip moving his power stroke forward 1/2". Would this increase the velocity of his arrow? My answer in long form would be the berger hole stays the same, however the grip moves the hand before the power stroke forward to the string 1/2", then the pull of the bow begins: x' + 1/2" +x''=28 Thus, the bow does give a slight, albeit insignificant, advantage. The physics of how an arrow launches to a target is, at least to me, very interesting. In the end does it contribute to the demise of what will become a lovely dinner? No. However, it does contribute to my interest. I reiterate what was said at the beginning, I am not trying to be obstinate. re. stcknstringarchery, think of it this way, if you put a 1/2" block between your hand and the grip, would your nock point be effected? I daresay yes. You would have adjust your bow to accept a 1/2" longer draw length.
There is only one way to look at this. The speed will not change because the powerstroke will not change. The actual draw length is measured from the string to the back of the grip(straight up in line with the berger) +1.75 . All you are doing is increasing draw length by increasing brace height but none of that matters. You have not changed the string travel AT ALL. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I would have decreased the brace height! The grip would move into the brace and then my power stroke would begin. I am a practical mathematician at heart. Think of it as the gap between where the berger hole is and where I attach the release becomes smaller.
