i did the walk back tuning and had all the arrows straight down, so therefore i went to broadhead tune. my broadheads are consistently about 3 inches to the left of the field points. i tried moving the rest to match but it moves both and are still off. now my walk back tune is way off. is this as close as i am going to get with the broadheads. i took it to two different bow shops and they both said my bow looked good.
when i hunt i use mechanical broadheads but as far as the tuning i am using fixed blade broadheads to try and fine tune the bow.
center shot is moved now bc i was trying to adjust to get the broadheads to match. i took pictures of the rest before i moved it so i could always take it back to that point. the nock is just above level.
I would get my center shot back to correct then if you have a string and arrow level use that. What is your set up? draw weight, arrow length and arrow spine?
its the new mission blaze, 28 in dl, 65 dw. arrow length is 29'' and the arrow is gold tip 7595 i believe
One of the main issues with using a fixed blade to tune is the blades have to match up with the fletchings if they dont they wont fly correct and youll have tuning issues do all the blades match your vains?
I don't think I've ever had one match up and I've never had an issue with fixed blades hitting the same spot. Not trying to be a jerk either...lol. If the bow is tuned...that won't matter all that much. Here is what I use...there are many different ways. http://www.ebay.com/itm/R-S-Nok-EZ-...410?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2336d268ca I also use a OMP Tru center too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/350988608342?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Again, you can use many different things. I would start with getting the arrow back to center, then make sure its level. Not sure if you have a press or not, but if you do or have access to one there very handy. I forgot to ask...what fixed blades are you shooting?
Yeah the fletching does not have to lineup. I'm not sure how well that'll show up since I'm posting it from my phone. So here's a link to the guide as well. http://www.eastonarchery.com/uploads/downloads/Tuning_Guide/Tuning_Guide.pdf EDIT: I have updated the picture to be clearer, if you click on it
You cant get correct flight with them not matching nor will you ever get a correct paper tare if paper tuned i work part time for a mathews dealer ive seen so many issues with tuning a fixed blade just try it trust me match them up and paper tune it at 3 ft then 6 ft then shoot out to 30 and let me know whats happening i bet youll get way tighter groups and way better arrow flight get your center shot correct then paper tune it then walk back tune it but you said you dont hunt with fixed blades so i wouldnt even tune it to fixed blades tune it to feild tips then shoot your expandables you shouldnt see any difference i would only fixed blade tune if thats all your going to hunt with.
How do I match a 4 blade broadhead to a 3 fletch arrow? I know how to tune a bow EXTREMELY WELL and I have never concerned myself with a broadhead matching the vanes or feathers. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
they are just cheap walmart broadheads, cost me like $15 for 3. I don't hunt with them so I didn't want to buy expensive ones. I thought I could tune with those, maybe that is my problem. if so ive been adjusting my bow for nothing. and I tried paper tuning, I constantly am getting a left tear or where the point impacts to the left of the fletchings.
paper tuning can also tell you a lot about how you shoot rather than just how the bow shoots. i know for me, when shot my buddy's mathews, i would shoot left because i torqued the handle. i wasn't used to it. paper tuning is useful but i don't consider it the end all be all.
Yeah I have to disagree with you too, here in oz two blade fixed broadheads are popular, lot's of experienced guys shooting them with a finished weight up around 6-700 grains on buffalo and big pigs up north. We obviously aren't able to index two blade heads the same as three fletches though Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk
I use a 3 blade to tune only because that is what I have. I never line them up with my fletchings, just make sure they spin straight. Broad head tuning is definitely the way to go though. Way better than paper. How far are you off at 30?
You need to tune with the broadheads you are going to hunt with. Otherwise you will not be 100% sure when it comes time to take a shot in the wild. Not sure why you would buy cheap heads to tune with. Sure, practice with the cheap heads if you want (for fun), but dont tune with them.
