Okay so here's the breakdown. I have a 70# model PSE Sinister set at 27.5" draw and even with the limb bolts maxed out, the highest I can get my draw weight to is 66#. Does my shorter draw change the maximum poundage of the bow? Thanks ya'll.
No i doesnt. Something isnt right if your limbs are maxed out and youre only at 66# Take it to a shop and have them check it out.
Yes it does. Look at a chart for a bow like the Mission Riot. The shorter the draw length, the lower the max poundage is.
Well now I need to know what's going on. I would think that it would effect any bow that way, but I'll be the first to admit that I know very little about such things. lol
I had the same problem with my PSE Stinger its a#60 limbs and like the OP the limbs were maxed out and it was only at 56#, i took it in to get checked out and it was out of spec so he made the adjustments to bring in back and now im back at 60#
What did they have to change to bring it back into specs? I just got off the phone with the PSE Technical support and they said that it could be string stretch or not enough twists in the string lowering the poundage.
More than likely your seeing string/cable stretch. PSE's strings for the most part are junk. Have the shop re-spec everything. You should hit anywhere from 70-72#
Do you have new strings on? I have some fairly new strings on, so it was simple by just adjusting the twist in the string to bring it back to its original specs
My Chill maxes at 71 and my Hoyt at 72.5. But that may change with string stretch? Makes sense and something I'll have to keep an eye on.
It's a new bow with stock string. I've probably put about 1500-2000 arrows through it so far with this string. I just called the bow tech at my local shop that I always go to and he tried telling me that it's my draw length that affects it. So I adjusted my draw to 29" and maxed out the limbs (factory specs) , still sitting steady at 65 1/2 - 66 # on the scale. Think I'm gonna have to find a new bow tech.
That would be a good idea. Dude has no idea what he is talking about. Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
My end goal is to slowly buy all of the tools so I can just do everything on my own and cut out the middle man. Like they always say, if you want something done right, do it yourself.
Just some general info and not specific to this situation.... With most bows, and the amount will vary...but draw weight and draw length are inverse when you drop in draw weight. For example: you back a 70 pound bow down to 60 you should expect to see a slight increase in the draw length. Why? Picture this, you just made the ATA closer and the string length is still the same...so your draw length will be slightly longer.....
Yea it's dead on. It's a digital scale that will keep displaying whatever the peak weight is. Tested to see how accurate it was with some of my workout weights. It's dead on.
A twist or a twist a half in your cables will bring you back up to spec.... Here is what I would do... Providing your strings and cables are in good shape.. Turn in your limb bolts all the way make sure the tiller is even. I would them measure your draw length on a draw board, making sure your at the correct length for your mod setting. I would then measure your draw weight after your draw length is correct, from that point I would add a twist or two to each cable to bring draw weight up to spec...ie max weight. While I am at it I would set time the cams. All this providing your string and cable don't need replacing. Hope this helps.
Thanks everyone for the input. Now my only challenge is finding a competent bow tech to do all of that. I know the guy down at bass pro is good so might have to make the trip down there.
