I called my archery shop and he suggested I try different broadheads. He mentioned to me that the diamond outlaw is a pita to tube because of the aggressive cam Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Well I tried my brothers, Magnus stinger 4 blade and I got the same response from the bow. William Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Lazy bow tech, easy bow. Have never had an issue tuning the outlaw. Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
When I turned the poundage down the bareshaft hit the same. I will try starting completely over again. William Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
No reason for a broadhead tipped arrow to not hit with fp if bareshaft does, other than inadequate fletch and poorly built arrows. sent from my samsung note 2
That's what I have been reading. The bareshaft goes into the target at an angle. I tried re tuning the rest and sight to shoot the Easton flatlined and the goldtip kinetics too see if it was the arrows and I am getting the same results. I have bare shaft tuned both flatline and kinetics, both are impacting the same. I checked fetching contact and that is not a issue. Put bright red lipstick on the vanes and saw no markings on the rest or bow shelf/riser. The kinetics have nap quickfletch quickspins on them and the flatlines have a 4 inch duravane with a 4 degree offsets to the right. William Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
This could have been taking place. I was inspecting the bow cams and looking at the manual. The bow was set up for 29 inch draw instead of my 30.5. I drew the bow back and holy moly, I felt relaxed. I truly hope that was the cause of all this frustration. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Shooting too short of a draw can cause left/right issues. Seems odd you wouldn't have noticed you were an 1 1/2" short. sent from my samsung note 2
I noticed something was funny and kept paying with the release adjustment till I could get it the best I could. I am not that experienced with bows so I took the techs word that it was setup correct. I read the entire article of nuts and bolts, so that made me check the draw length. He had a section that mentions over drawing or pulling to hard into the wall it can twist the riser. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Pulling too hard into wall can cause issue with the bow tune but the biggest issue with being too short is body alignment. Shoulders get way too open and creates unsustainable angles in your form. sent from my samsung note 2
Tfox I applaud you and thank you for helping me. When I get back home I will continue to look the bow over. Tomorrow I am going to retune and see how things go. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Paper tuned bow since it is night and I only have ten yards in of shooting space in the garage right now. Then shot the bare shaft at ten yards. After that I shot the broadhead and that impacted the same as the field point. Cannot wait till tomorrow to try and shoot at further distance. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
To some up and end this thread. I finally got a chance to shoot the bow outside. Shot at twenty yards and magnus stinger and slick tricks are both hitting where field points are. I learned a lot from this and hopefully others can to. Thank you too all who helped. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Good to hear! Either I missed it, or you didn't post it, but was there ever a real clear answer as to what the problem was? Or just the few problems we already discussed? Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
Thats basically what I was guessing. Was wondering how the tune of the whole bow turned out Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
From initial start to finish center shot was slightly off, yoke was just a tick off, but the main thing was draw length. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Thanks! Glad everything is working for you now! Good luck down the road Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2
