so I have been dealing with some horrible broadhead flight since I bought a new bow last week. the bow is set at 69.65# at 27" draw. The shop gave me ICS Hunters 340's. The arrows are a tad under 27" My first thought was, I always shoot 400's at this length but he said these should be fine. I trust him, been buying from him for 25 years. So we paper tuned and got bullet holes and I went out the door. I grabbed some 3 bld 100 gr muzzy and fp and went to shooting. Out to 20 yds it was dead nuts, but at 25, it was way off, by 6" right. I kept trying to force it. never got better. Went to a different shop to have my serving on my cable checked and turns out they replaced the cable and mod that was eating my cable. So as I should, I decided to paper tune. it was horrible then got it close but still had a left tear. Finally the pro shop guy looked at my arrow and said, no wonder, your too stiff!! He cut me the same arrow, same length, only these were 400's....first, second, third and fourth shot all perfect bullet holes. I had to buy a half dozen right then. Came home screwed on the muzzy stepped back to 25 yds and bam dead nuts, in the poor light!! so, even the tiniest bit of spine can drive a man nuts when it ain't right. So anyone want to buy 13 ICS hunters 340's cut to 27" for about 45$??
or you could tried 125 gr the heavier the tip the weaker the spine. $6.00 for tip is a lot better then $45 for new arrow spine.
I'm shooting a 300 spine arrow and can shoot fixed heads fine after bare shaft tuning. If your arrow is too stiff you tune the bow to the arrow not the arrow to the bow. It's actually better if you can because stiffer arrows have a more consistent dynamic spine. I learn that from Tim Gillingham who is a a very successful professional archer.
Well for me, I could not get a fixed head to fly straight past 20 yds. After doing some yoke tuning and rest adjustment I still could not get a bullet hole. I don't really know about bare shafting for compounds, I have done it with traditional bows (recurves) but it was very wishy washy do to form imperfections. My experience has been when I get bullet holes in the paper, I can get great flight from any head I choose. I could have gone with a heavier head and probably achieved the same result. What's done is done now, and I am happy with the results. lesson learned for me.
I never even paper tune anymore. I walk back tune then bareshaft. But as long as you are happy with the final result, that is all that matters. I would be surprised if a 340 was stiff at 65# even at 27" and cut 27". But like I said, you having confidence in your gear is more important than what some guys on the internet say .
I've never had an issue with getting bows to tune with arrows that are too stiff. In fact, I prefer it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sometimes it's tricky and can take forever. I know it took me a couple days because I've never done any tuning myself before.
