I feel like seeing some heated discussion. or maybe not. Why do you guys like paper tuning. I see no advantage to it. it seems like a waste of time. bare shaft tuning will get you dialed in even at long range. and from there. walkback tune your broad heads.
Can someone provide a link to a good video or description of what bare shaft tuning is? I have tried looking up videos on youtube and couldn't find a good one. But honestly I haven't looked very hard haha
I would prefer bare shaft tuning but I'm a beginner at it so I've got some things to learn. I usually just do a paper tune at the shop when I get a new rest or bow. I usually get it done free if the owner of the shop is there since we're pretty good friends. Broadhead tuning is my second and last step. I don't do a whole bunch of tuning like some people because I don't see a real advantage since you will end up moving your rest for your broadheads anyway.
I do a combo of modified French and bare shaft tuning...paper tune is just a starting point, but I feel like it can be skipped. I like to set the recommended center shot for my bow which is like 7/8 to 13/16...then use a bare shaft and a fletched at like 5-6' to get same hole with bare shaft and fletched using my sight and yoke tuning...then I walk back to 10 yards and shoot fletched groups and adjust rest to get group on line...then back up to 2 yards again bare shaft and fletched same hole with sight and yoke adjustment if needed...then back to 20 yards very small rest adjustment again....then back up to 2 yards.....then back to 30...then 2...then 40. You get the idea...it's worked for me...and then when I double check both bare shafts and broadheads will fly with fletched at 20 and 30...broadheads get checked out to 40...then I'm done.
Paper is ok for setting nock height and center shot, the problem is I have shot bullet holes only to have bareshafts or broadheads be way off so I just skip that step. I like to walk back to get my center shot close then I move to bareshafts, then broadheads. Aaron, bareshaft tuning is shooting a fletched shaft then a bare shaft (obviously). By the position of the nock or where the bare shaft hits compared to the fletched you make adjustments either to the rest, nock point, cables and/or yokes if you have them. Here is a 20 yard bareshaft and broadhead group (QAD Exodus).
I don't bare shaft yet - but, I guess you better know that the spine is in the right place. If a guy just takes an arrow with the fletchings off of it and that arrow doesn't fly true - it would seem that things would go wrong pretty quick. I'm not saying you guys are doing this, but a new guy reading might just grab an arrow and go do this. A person would need a bare shaft and know the history of that bare shaft - correct?
Bare shaft can be hard if you don't have good form so a beginner shouldn't rely on it too much. Paper tune is very basic starting point but I use walk back and broad head tuning the most.
My respectable local archery shop offers paper tuning. I was asking them a few questions recently and paper tuning came up and they mentioned they don't recommend paper tuning for a beginner because of form/grip inconsistencies. These are all reason why I have a hard time deciding which tuning methods to use. I still feel new enough to archery that I don't feel my grip is consistently the same enough to get "true" answers as to what needs to be adjusted from some tuning methods.
Paper can be very beneficial in it gives you a snapshot of what is going on. You don't use paper to set centershot (this is where many make the mistake) you use it to check arrow flight. French or walk back are much better to use for centershot. Yoke tune to clean up tears. Bareshaft is great if you have perfect weather, perfect form and no issues with your bow. Paper can point out there are issues with a bow (bent riser) arrow issues. It can show spine issues, contact issues, torque issues, etc, etc. Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
