I have pse dna with a qad hdx rest. Should the rest be touching the arrow shelf when its all the way down? Also I cannot, for the life of me get my broadheada and field points to fly the same. Is it true that they do? Im using the same grain broadhead as i am field point. The best thing I could do is tune it to shoot broadheads and not shoot field points. Which sucks because id like to be shooting every day pretty much or atleast every weekend. Im sure this all seems simple but Im struggeling with it and would love some more insight!
Also, does my fletching and broadheads have to be inline? Two of my arrows are not in line but one is. They all seem to shoot the same.
Have you had your bow tuned? My suggestion to solving the broad head and field point issue would be taking your bow to local pro shop and have them tune your bow while shooting the broad heads. Then try shooting field points and see how close it is; if it's not close i would simply find a target that allows you to shoot with broad heads year round. Another solution could be switching to expandable style broad heads, as they fly very similar to that of field points. You don't need to worry about aligning your broad heads and fletchings.
Short answer.....your bow is not tuned. You do NOT need to align fletching and blades. Your "nothing special "bh from Walmart may be the issue. What brand? Did you spin test them and see if they spin true? I just got a dozen FP and over half of them wobble. Even with a FP I see a difference in flight. What I would do is: - Check BH to see if true. - Shoot a BH and FP at they farthest you feel you are accurate. Move the rest slightly to see if you can get them to shoot together. If you can then move your sight pins.
They are carbon express mayhem 100ext I went and picked up some nap hell razors and new field points im going to try again here in the next couple of days.
Def a big step up from your walmart heads, but I would still say your bow is out of tune...you can def broadhead tune as suggested above, but your best bet is to check your center shot and timing, yoke tune, paper tune, and then from there you can make any other small adjustments necessary to have both your bh and field points hitting the same point of impact.
What hardwoods said...and when you learn what all that is and how to do it...you can go and open your own archery shop.
The rest should NOT be hitting the shelf at rest, or at all for that matter. The first step is to have the bow properly tuned as the other have said. I've owned many new model PSE bows, I've ran the QAD HDX on all of them and it never touched the shelf on any of them.
I don't know much about drop aways so can't help you there. as far as your broad heads not flying like your field points is more than likely a tuning issue, I'd recommend getting it checked out at your local bow shop. most newer broadheads even fixed broadheads are tested to fly like field points.. I use the G5 Montecs, they're a fair priced broad head that I know are reliable and fly as advertised. also as others have said, you could always go with a mechanical broadhead which will probably fly like your field points whether your bow is properly tuned or not.
I would disagree with this. fixed blade broadheads will fly a little different, there is no getting around that. my bow is perfectly tuned for my broad heads right now, and my field points are off about 3/4" per 10yrd. you should learn to work on your bow yourself. dont be one of those people that dont know there draw stop from there yoke cable. there is a endless supply of information online if you have no one to teach you. be self reliant . ya know? PS. the G5 Montec broadheads I have are really nice. they group amazing. and you can get them for around $36 per 3 on amazon.
I know quite a few people who have tuned their bow with fixed broadheads and they hit the mark with both BH and field points. It's obviously more difficult, but can be done. I choose to shoot expandables, which are obviously easier to tune for.
