I'm shooting a 2015 Mathews HTR, 26.5" draw, 70lbs DW with Easton FMJ 400 arrows with a 125 grain tip. I purchased a dozen and only 4 out of that dozen are flying properly. Most of them kick and corkscrew in flight. I've shot indoors and outdoors to see if it was just the light or shadows but they kick in all conditions. I numbered all the arrows to see if it was my form, but it is not. Some arrows kick more than others. Again, there are a few arrows that fly beautifully, but that is not the majority. I brought the bow to 2 reputable bow shops and we've determined it's not the bow. The issue is we've spun the arrows they seem straight and true. There is no fletching contact during the shot. I've been extremely careful removing the arrows from the target so I don't bend them (the spinner confirmed they aren't bent) I'm at a loss. Is it the arrows? I feel like I wasted $130.
If the arrows aren't bent... and the bow papertunes fine then I wouldn't worry about it. I shoot the deep6 FMJ's and my local shop uses regular FMJ's in the shooting lane and I haven't ever seen a "defective" batch. But it is common that people will shoot better with a few arrows out the box, others not 100%. As long as you're hitting where you're aiming I'd be hard pressed to really worry bout it. Guess you could strip off vanes an refletch with a helical maybe tighten them up a bit... if you think it's not the rest on bow .. Looks like you've already done all the research and tried to fix whatever you could already. So I guess refletching may be only option Sent from my ASUS PadFone X using Tapatalk
I'm assuming once I put broad heads on the arrows the kick will be exaggerated and they'll fly all over the place. I haven't tried broad heads yet in fear that I'll lose the arrow due to erratic flight. The other side is that I could use the arrows that kick for practice. But then I'm limited to only a few hunting arrows and I didn't pay that money for poor-flying practice arrows. I don't know if I should try another half dozen FMJ's for my hunting arrows. I'm afraid I'll only get 2 or 3 decent arrows out of them. At the same time I don't want to have to resight my bow and whatnot for a lighter arrow. I'll see what Easton has to say, I guess.
I agree with Mac. Try refletching. Go at least 4* with a Blazer vane. If you have that try a harder *. Also check your serving and your nocks. Some maybe tighter than others hanging on just a little better at release causing it to kick. Just a thought.
disclaimer: I'm no expert!!! first thing that comes to my mind is the fmjs are slightly smaller diameter therefore they might not be level from center of the string to the arrow rest, like normal diameter arrows. which would cause a bit of vertical kick. might require a micro tune of the arrow rest being brought up just a bit. just a thought.
They're a small part that play a significant roll. We all tend to forget about them. I read somewhere that you can significantly reduce the size of your groupings if you adjust your nock fit so that when you point the bow down and bump the string they fall off. Cant remember where that article was.
Have you tuned the bow? Paper, walk back, bare shaft, anything? 400's with a 125 grain tip out of a 70# bow might be weak. You have a shorter draw length so I guess depending how short your arrows are they may be ok. But you could try a 100 grain point and see if they fly any better.
Coop, I originally had 100's on there and it was suggested I bump up to the 125's because that shaft was on the stiffer side. There has been no change, better or worse, since the switch. I've done a few paper tunes and walk backs. The good arrows leave bullet holes. I haven't paper tuned the bad arrows yet.
I bet your underspined. I just did the new arrow thing (HTR 60/27.5) and went with 300s. That is only at 60#. Zero issues. Try the lighter bh and turn your bow down a few turns and see.
Yeah now that I look at the chart it appears I might be a bit under. I'll give it a shot. However, I had the same issues with the 100's before I switched to 125's. I'll have to try the knock thing too and see if I can figure it out.
Just an experience that I had. I bought a dozen FMJ's and since They were more expensive than what I normally shot I was going to make them pretty. I usually just do white wraps with white vanes but this time I got some fancy wraps and used white vanes with a red cock vane. When I shot I would swear that the arrows were flying crazy but were hitting the mark like they were supposed to. It was driving me nuts! I even video taped shooting and realized I was seeing the rotation of the odd colored cock vane in flight down range and not used to seeing that, that made it look like the arrow was flying weird but the arrows were flying like they were on a rope. I also use lighted nocks for hunting but not for practice much. Used them while taping and that really helped show the arrow flight. This may sound dumb but I've never claimed to be the brightest bulb in the box! LOL!
