new to the forum so thanks in advance for your help recently put a new string on my Z7 extreme and have shot about 550 shots since the shop installed it. The string was from a newish company in Meridian Id "on target custom bowstrings". I wanted a winners choice but the bow shop guy talked me into one of their own strings which he said were just as good as winners choice, and the same price. he said it would take about 400 shots to break it in....so I should be there. Problem is I am about 10 inches low at 50 and about 25inches low at 70yds. right on at 20. so it seems that I have lost a lot of velocity....is that common?
I'm no expert. You may be right to blame the string but the first thing I would try is to either adjust your rest up slightly or your nocking point down slightly. Sent from my Classic using Tapatalk
Should have told him you WANT Winner's Choice strings, but that's water over the dam. I don't see how you could get those inconsistencies with the bow right on at 20yrds, I don't think the strings are the culprit. I just had WC strings put on my bow last season and love them.
the only other thing I changed was I went from a 3/16 peep to a 7/32 .......could that make that much of a difference
First issue. If the guy told you that a string takes 400 shots to break in then he is a moron and doesn't know the first thing about strings, or building them. Now onto your issue. Reasons why your bow isn't shooting to the same poi since you replaced the string....most likely your not at the same specs at more. So one or all of these things happened: the string was built out of spec, you bow isn't making it pre change weight, your peep sight isn't in the same position. Your nocking point isn't in the same position . So any one or all of these issues are now in play.
It's also a possibility that a new string brought the bow back into factory specs. That's what happened with my new string. Sent from my Classic using Tapatalk
Two things that I would start with draw weight and check the timing after than just a real good tune many string builders don't realize that matthews string specs on the bow are usually off that will throw the timing off you need to see that buss cable dead center of that timing hole look
New strings equals tuning. You should first spec tune the bow. Setting the draw weight, axel to axel measurement and brace height. Then walk back tuning, paper tuning or broadhead tuning. I generally just skip to broadhead tuning as I hunt mostly. It's likely your draw weight is reduced like Hutch said or you nocking point is high putting your arrow in the dirt faster.
I have bought over 10 sets from Bowstring Depot...Hutch from above post. Not one issues with his. I have shot most big name company with not so much luck. With Hutch's strings I usually install string. Shoot about 10 times, if that many. Tie my peep in and I'm good to go. Hope you get your corrected. Sent from my XT830C
thnaks for your help Thank you to all of you who responded. Took the bow to Tom aka "ex-wolervine" at Park-N-Sons Archery. He found multiple serious issues with the way that the other bow shop tuned the bow. They really had done nothing other than install the string...although they told me they had "fine" tuned the bow and I paid them $156 for the string and tune up. He spent several hours with me and my bow and refused to talk any money. Got home did a few gang adjustments and the bow is shooting lights out...from 20 to 70 with no other adjustments. thought OK this is good wonder how it shoots broad heads.............three shot 70 yd broad head group all inside 3 inch bulls eye with no adjustment from feild points. Incredible. Nothing but good to say about "ex-wolverine". This guy flat knows what he is doing and is honest and easy to work with. By the way he builds strings and if his strings reflect his tuning ability then this is where we all should be getting our strings. My next string will be from Park-N-Sons Archery Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. Name: IMG_3122.jpg Views: 0 Size: 120.3 KB ID: 2715130
