paper tuning question

Discussion in 'Tech Talk' started by ShaneB22, May 16, 2015.

  1. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Okay so I just picked up my reezen and I've read some similar things. I'm shooting a 300 spine Gold Tip and I'm getting a weak reaction. But the thing is since I haven't shot in a while I'm only shooting 58lbs because I don't over bow myself right away. There's zero cam lean or any other funny stuff people say about he the limbs or the riser. Any help would definitely be appreciated.
     
  2. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Anybody have an idea?
     
  3. maxpetros

    maxpetros Grizzled Veteran

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    Sure you're not getting a stiff reaction? Unless you have a very long shaft, and a ton of top weight, that shaft is not weak. Post some pictures of the tear.


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  4. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I will take some pictures next time. I didn't happen to take any and I just asked Tim so he might have solution.
     
  5. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Nock left is a weak arrow reaction correct? I'm sorta new to paper tuning myself.
     
  6. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Oh and my draw is 27", my arrows are 26.5", total arrow weight is 391 grains, foc is 12.84%. I tried weaker arrows and bumping up my foc but it made it worse. Whenever I went stiffer the tear got better. By the way the tear isn't very big maybe just and inch. Should I just be satisfied with that or try to fix it?
     
  7. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Tim helped me out. He said add a twist in the left yoke and take one out of right yoke.
     
  8. Matt/TN

    Matt/TN Die Hard Bowhunter

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    What's your Centershot set at measured? I usually start at 3/4 but anywhere from 13/16 to 11/16 is acceptable on a Mathews.

    First off, you need to be 100% that your grip is not inducing any torque. Play with different grips to be sure at first. Most guys that torque the bow with their grip, swear they aren't. So pay close attention to that.

    Secondly, your arrow is definitely NOT too weak and I personally think a 340 would be better. Also, the advice Tim gave you is sound advice. Your can lean should be set, straight at full draw. That tear does indicate that you need to load up the left yoke more.

    Your first step is to measure your Centershot and check your grip


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  9. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    The centershot is set to the focus grip and I have the ridge down the lifeline of hand, knuckles at 45°, index and middle finger just touching the front of the riser. Yeah I know my arrow is definitely not weak, I was just a little confused paper tuning myself.
     
  10. Matt/TN

    Matt/TN Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I would still measure the Centershot. I never pay attention to that line anymore. Take a tape and measure from the riser to the center of the shaft. I set mine to 3/4 as a starting point and go from there. If you're confident that you're grip is good, your Centershot is good, then twist up the left side of the yoke until you get a bullet holr


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  11. maxpetros

    maxpetros Grizzled Veteran

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    Always make sure that cam lean is zero at full draw. Measuring at rest means nothing. Start from there and adjust yokes to clean the tear up


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  12. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Okay I shot a bare shaft at 10 yards. It hits in the same spot as my fletched arrows but as expected a little tail left. If the bare shaft hits in the same spot at 20 yards should I even bother with it?
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2015
  13. maxpetros

    maxpetros Grizzled Veteran

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    I would. I would try and clean it up so the bare shaft isn't tail left. I want mine to be completely straight.


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  14. Matt/TN

    Matt/TN Die Hard Bowhunter

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    You may need to just move your rest out. That's why I said measure it to make sure. I would definitely try to clean it up. It shouldn't take long at all


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