Just wondering if anyone in the South (Alabama) has had any experience good/bad with Monster Raxx Trophy Minerals? Our club is looking into mineral sites and would like some feedback with southern usage. Thanks
I am in North Carolina and I grew up in South Carolina. I have used MonsterRaxx in both places and it works really well. I have the best success with it in very loose soil. Like where a stump use to be or an area that holds water naturally. It doesn't take deer long to find it. If I create a mineral site that morning, in almost ALL situations they are on it that evening. At the latest they are hitting it by the second evening. It is so aromatic it will draw them in. The pics below show a new mineral I started and how quickly they found it and hit it.
Sam, Thanks for the info. Do you just clear an area and pour the bag in? And, is water in the area a requirement or just an advantage/suggestion?
Someone called me about this last night. The product is middle of the road on a nutrition scale for products on the market. Does will frequent minerals licks slightly more often than bucks. Most "oxides" will flush through the system in under 40 hours. Sulfates tend to be 30-50 % more bioavailable and chelates will be about 30% more bioavailable than the sulfates. So, most minerals you see out there are low bioavailable and only find the blood stream. The top mineral sources out there will net up to 80% more bioavailable and will becomes absorbed in the muscle, in the case of chelated selenium. Many products on the market have about 1/4- 1/10 as much trace minerals than i recommend based on sound science. Then when you factor in bioavailabilities, most should be sold for about 1./2 the price than they are. A sound deer mineral will contain 6-9% Phos, 16-20% calcium, over 1% mg, 3000 ppm zn 2000 mn 20 ppm se, between 15-25% salt and with the only oxide being magnesium oxide. The rest of the trace minerals should be at least sulfates and preferably proteinates or polysaccarides.
I cleared an area about 3 feet x 3 feet. I then poured the MonsterRaxx down and mixed it into the soil with a garden hoe. I didn't add water to my spot. It was pretty wet the day I did it. It is concave in this spot and it normally will hold water once it rains.
You really shouldn't add water as it makes deer mineral into a hard "rock". Salt regulates intake up or down for all ruminants. To achieve maximum intake of deer mineral you need to place the mineral 2-3 inches below the ground level. Deer are designed to have their nose on the ground. Another benefit of this is they produce more saliva which also helps "buffer" themselves. Kick some dirt over the mineral lick and don't make it too deep. You don't want water sitting in your mineral hole if your trying to maximize intake. You also want a light coating/crust on the top of the mineral but you don't want it to become a solid product. One year i had down 1400 lbs of deer mineral and ive played with every flavor, salt level and form of enhancer that i am aware out there. The science behind deer mineral consumption is also related to the free choice goat and stocker cattle mineral programs. Note a deer is basically a goat and a goat is basically a deer.
Our Club in Tuscaloosa gave up with feeding minerals and corn etc. Hogs always got there first and the deer didn't get anything of it. I HATE Hogs
You state all of these things but never give advice on specific products to look for/try. You have to realize that there are tons of people who visit this site who are in the very early stages of learning about minerals, mineral programs, or even hunting all together. I would bet a lot of them read what you post and become more confused by what they just read. Explaining things in "noob" language would help a large majority of the people here.
First off, I know you think you are a genius but Wisconsin is not down south. So you are not giving any help to the OP. If you want to start a new thread bashing me go ahead I do not care. Second I think it is funny that you think we are middle of the road because you definitely are not that. With the arrogance you post most see you are a top of the line d bag. Again you can say whatever else you want about me I dont care and I am not going to get in a big argument here since what I have to say will matter little to what you "know". And third, please be careful with all of your patting yourself on the back I would hate to see you need elbow replacement surgery.
To answer a couple posters questions. My background is....i consult for people all over the us. I have invented products for people used all over the us and i was the nutritionist for the first $1 million dollar animal in the US. I mearly have ran into many smart people in the last 25 years and i also have been a part of a lot of research. I have has numerous early innovators in my circle of trust. I live nutrition and spend a lot of hours each day helping people. So, yeah i have sat down with some of really interesting people and am involved with a lot of INDEPENDENT research, consulting etc etc. Now on to products, I post on sites to try to give unbiased science, facts and opinions. I have numerous products out there that i have a hand in formulating under various labels. Yes, i even started a website to raise money for youth hunting and education and am getting a team of people who also raise money for education to help the cause, as our youth is the future of hunting. So, if people want product names and the like, i prefer to do it away from the masses in forums so as to not push one product over another. I post to help educate people to what they should look for. Tag reading 101 is what i basically posted above and it should help people compare. I also came onto this site and others and conduct wildlife seminars to help educate. There are a number of companies that are not selling science. For example i sat in on a meeting where xyz fancy bag company was bragging up their products. When i asked about why he uses oxides verses sulfates, he responded how they are more bioavailable. Needless to say that should speak volumes. Another meeting for a very well known company, there was some highly unethical stuff done and i no longer could promoter or recommend anyone to use their products as i believe sound science and ethics is highly important. Putting a deer on a bag with a fancy name isn't science. So, instead of which products should people use....here is how one can do it themselves if they choose to make their own deer mineral. The ideal range for salt is 15-25%. Less than 15 and you won't get the crust over the mineral. Over 25% and you will limit intake as salt is the big regulator of intake in most animal feeds and minerals. You also want at least sulfates verses oxides.. oxides<sulfate<proteinates<polysaccarides. That isn't my words that is fact according to many many research studies. Take for example iron oxide.It has ZERO bioavailability and it's main function should be to add color to a mineral, if people think they need a red tint. So a great homeade formula is 10 lBs salt 15 lbs calcium 5 lbs deer base that contains a high plane of bioavailable trace minerals,vitamins and a natural attractant 20 lbs monocal or dicalcium phosphate i prefer b and b dical as they pull 30% of the iron and aluminum out of the dical. That results in a more "Clean" dical. Ok, on to, various areas of the country and their mineral requirements. Ok, a 200 class buck, a 50,000 lb per lactation cow, a prize goat , it doesn't matter where you are at there are the same basic requirements. But, yes there is variations on soil types, water quality and antagonists. Most are not getting nearly that in depth unless your a game farm trying to grow 400" class bucks. Yep, there are things you don't want to do in the North that they do down south. There are are tricks, but if your trying to thin out the blood, you can freeze northern deer to death if you get crazy with blood thinning agents. But then again, most deer mineral companies north nor south are doing some of those things. That plane of nutrition is usually in add packs or super packs. So, in summary. I'm more than willing to discuss many things i can't discuss on here via phone or emails. My opinions are just that but i can share a lot of data that i have been a part of if need be. I am blessed to have been asked to take part in unbiased research as well as consult with some very interesting people. I appologize for being a tad vague at times and i hope people can respect that and i also respect others opinions on any topic posted.
The post above stated what I said. He wanted to tell PRHC Bowman what he recommends and that was NEVER the question. PRHC Bowman ONLY wanted to know if MonsterRaxx worked in the South. It is a Yes or No question. The answer again is YES it does!
Best application whether in the south or north...is to directly inject the mineral into the blood stream. I have over 50 years of experience and over 100,000 tests conducted all within the last 3 days that this is the best way. (obviously this is a joke, a mood lightener....maybe )
I live in central NC with SharpEyeSam and they've gone crazy over it on every property that I've put it on. I don't know if "the nutritionist" knows what he's talking about or not but I simply don't know enough about deer biology to argue or criticize. Anyhow, I only started using Monster Raxx just last summer so I can't honestly say how much it helps them -- it's just too early for me to give an honest and reliable answer right now. But what I can tell you...THEY LOVE IT. Last summer, I was getting upwards of 4,500 pics a week (2 pic burst) at every time of the day, bucks and does. SharpEyeSam is the one that turned me on to the product so I followed his directions of clearing a spot about as big as a tire, where water collects, loosening the dirt and mixing it in. Superior product in my eyes. Starting two new sights and freshening up 2 more in the morning
Unless you have over 20 years and more initials representing degrees infront of your name your opinion is moot. You are experiencing exactly what we have for the past 3 or 4 years!!
Ok guys lets try and get back to helping the OP please. If anyone has a question you can always send me a pm or an email if you would like.
I know I shouldnt open this can of worms but what and when was this million dollar animal you speak of? Sorry MR this is way off topic, I agree that your product should work anywhere there is deer.
