Hello everyone this is my first post here on the forum, I'm looking for a little advice on the order I should change out a few things. I'll start off with what I have, I bought it used about 4 seasons ago and use it strictly for hunting and practice. 2008 Bowtech Allegiance, barnesdale limbs, string was replaced and upgraded right before I got it, and I've been using a hostage rest and a lower end tru glo site. So his hunting season while bored in the tree stand I noticed that it appears that my fletchings may contact my cables, maybe. Then I noticed the serving at my nock point is worn out. With that being said I decided it's time to replace the string and cables, and I'd like to get a good quality full-containment fall away rest, and I ordered a Saunders hyper glide slides. So I guess this is where my questions come in to view. I want to do this work myself, I am a DIYer. So I ordered a bow square also and am going to build a vice. I have never paper tuned this bow and assume I have compensated for anything out of wack by "sighting it in" at short range...25-35 yds. What do y'all think would be the best order to do this work in? The slide will be here Monday , and I assumed i could put it on with out a problem, but should I swap on a new string, and tune it with the current rest? Swap on a new rest and tune it with the current string? I'd prefer to do some parts at a time instead of starting from scratch I guess, unless that is the absolute best place to start. And fyi I haven't decided on a string set yet, I want the best bang for the buck, and will probably go with a vendor from a forum. And as far as the site goes I'm deciding btwn the qad hdx, archer xtreme titanium recon, and the limb driver pro v. Thanks for the input.
No matter which order you do it, you'll have to re-tune each time you change out something. I would wait till you have everything and do it all at once...then you'll only need to re-tune one time. I'm assuming you have a bow press?
I agree with Mathewshooter. The best way to do it, would be to get everything and then start. Install the string/calbles, then the slide, then the rest. If you want to get the rest set up, hopefully with properly made strings, your tuning of the rest should be minimal. Tuning the rest can take some time but there are lots of resources to help you do it properly. Broadhead Tunning - Page 1 | Bowhunting.com Blog
Thanks for the replies. I do not have a bow press, I was gonna use this technique posted by draves archery: http://youtu.be/ta-PW-Fq12U I was playing it out in my mind like it would be less of a problem to get it close if I did a piece at a time. But with the square and measuring I guess it won't be much of a problem. Thanks
When you get a new drop away rest you can eliminate this problem by simply turning your nocks so that the fletches clear.
If you are looking for a full containment rest I would recommend the Trophy Ridge revolution, affordable, it drops away and I have thousands of shots on mine and it has never given me a problem.
Do not do that! There is an extremely high possibility of damaging your cams or limbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WOW!! That guy is nuts!! I wouldn't do that either and, quite frankly, its a little irresponsible of him to even show his customers how to do that. Do you think it would be covered under warranty if you damaged something trying to change your string without a press?
It would most likely not be. And I think the customer service rep would just laugh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Would you care to explain further? I can move the cable enough with one hand to place a stopper in there and release it gently down on to the tool. Are you thinking that is more force or pressure than drawing for a shot at 70lbs? I tried this method a few weeks ago to see if it works, I was careful, and am not convinced on catastrophic damage. I may end up looking stupid but I'd like to hear more input on it. Also I am not trying to start any sort of e-argument, just a friendly discussion.
Those vanes will lay down when the arrow is released and there is about a 99% chance they don't contact your cable. If you want to test it, put a little bit of lipstick on the front of the vane you think will contact. Shoot the arrow and wipe the cable with a kleenex and see if there is any lipstick on it. As for the method of pressing the bow, I personally don't think it's the "best" way to do it but I certainly don't think it's that big of a deal. certainly it's not the preferred method but it would work.
I will give that a try, but either way I will have my eyes on a fall away. The hostage rest (at least my model) looks and feels cheap or poor quality. I am thinking that we feel the same way on that method. Sure if I had a press I would use that, but for the few total minutes it takes to swap strings and cables, I really can't see a problem.
You will be putting a lot of pressure on the limbs and cams. The Allen wrench could dig into the limbs or deform the cams. And in the event that you don't install the strings properly and something happens you can bet the company won't warranty it because that is not an approved method for pressing the bow. Also do you have a draw board because you will need one to 1. Measure cam lean at full draw 2. Check the cam timing and sync and 3. To get the cables to the proper lengths before installing as they need to be measured under 100 pounds of tension. If the lengths are wrong it will not meet factory specs for AtA, DL, DW, and brace height. The timing and cam sync will be off and you will have many more tuning issues. It's not as simple as just putting the strings around the cams. I would just recommend you have your shop do this properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just re watched the video and it is laughable that he actually thinks that is safer than a bow press. And you can't effectively eyeball the cam lean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the detailed reply. I did not realize it was that involved. I was looking at this as a good opportunity to learn some new skills and enjoy the satisfaction of taking care of my own stuff, but it looks like I will A. Take it to a shop, there's a handful within an hour of the house or B. Invest in more equipment to properly tackle this project.
I just replaced my cables using the pull the cable and place a wrench/driver/etc in. It did no damage to my bow or cams. I chose to use a screw driver. You can always wrap some tape around the driver to provide a soft contact point. I have a Mathews so I have a timing hole and setting that was pretty easy. Cam lean I drew back how I normally would then look up to check lean. It can also be done easily with a buddy to look as well. I never had replaced a string and cable so this was a first for me as well. YouTube video from draves archery on string and cable replacement was great. I can now confidently work on and tune my bow with no special equipment and I know how it all works! If you take your time go slow you can go through a replacement without a press successfully and safely.
You won't be able to eye ball zero cam lean effectively. Putting it in a draw board you can ensure it is much more accurate. And on a single cam the timing is much easier but in the OPs binary it is a much bigger matter when it comes to tuning properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
