IMO, pretty poor advice from a supposal "Expert". Just move your pins? [video]http://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/hunting/2014/07/bowhunting-prep-broadheads-vs-field-points?src=related&con=outbrain&obref=obinsite#ooi d=E2Y2pqbjqS2DULEA7m_vtfuwIfEF5Wbl[/video]
Yep....its called Broadhead tuning. Maybe ol' Larry should google it! If your broadheads don't hit where your fieldtips do, then your bow is out of tune. What he should be doing is lowering his rest or raising nocking point and moving the rest to the left. SMH at Outdoor Life, they are a wealth of misinformation
I'm going to be the devils advocate on this one........... I can guarantee you Larry Wise has forgotten more about tuning bows than 99.9999999% of the people on this site have ever known. He also likely knows that if his bow is tuned by means other than broad head tuning that often times there is no real benefit to doing a different tune that has broad heads and field points grouping in the same spot. Why would you compromise a perfect walkback and creep tune to get broadheads and field points to group together? If they are grouping a couple of inches apart give the sight a few clicks and go hunt.
My only question is... whynot get them to hit in the same spot? Its not like it is hard. And in this dayto have a video segment just tell you to move your pins for your BH's and noteven mention doing any tuning what so ever isn't very informative. I sat in on a LW seminar a few years back and it was well done and informative. This video is lacking IMO.
Matt, I see you edited your post so I'll just reply to this one too. If that was his objective I could live with that. But he didn't even mention tuning at all. He just said "Ok my BH's are hitting different than my FP's. I need to move my pins".
I don't want to come across as rude or arrogant but I think many people overstate the importance of broadheads and field points hitting in the same spot. Is it ideal.........yes. Is is required and is there a dramatic disadvantage if they don't assuming the bow is otherwise tuned........no. If a bow is reasonably tuned otherwise I just don't feel it makes a huge difference in the real world. I'd much rather see a bow properly creep tuned and walkback tuned than one that is simply broadhead tuned because in the real world these things matter much more. I also feel that in the real world many people that think their bow is tune to shoot broadheads and field points simply don't shoot well enough to know they really aren't impacting in the same exact spot. If you have tuned dozens or hundreds of bows you likely know that getting them to all group broadheads and field points in the same exact spot isn't always possible without compromising on something else. In a perfect world yes it's ideal to have them hitting in the same spot, I'm not willing to compromise more important aspects of my bows tune to make that happen. JZ was out about a week ago when I tuned my current setup for broadheads. The bow has a perfect walkback and creep tune on it. At 30 yards, I was shooting roughly 1.5-2" low with broadheads. I likely would have needed to take my nock point out of square on the bow or slightly adjusted timing to bring the groups together. On a hunting bow though I'm unwilling to give up a perfect creep tune to do this. I gave the site a few clicks and called it a day.
Ok. But address my most important point. He didn't even mention tuning at all. You have to admit there are plenty of inexperienced bow hunters that don't check squat. And those hunters see a video like this and think they don't need to.
Fair enough. I agree with you that he could have gone into more depth. I guess my reaction is simply due to the nature of what I see online in archery forums for the past 10-15 years. It seems so often that some type of technical content gets posted that may or may not be accurate, then people restate it over and over until others believe it's reality. The broadhead/fieldpoint tune discussion is a perfect example of this. Everyone seems to "know" it's super important, but no one knows why, and everyone knows how "easy" it is so it must be reality. So many people learn by reading this stuff on the internet these days vs. learning by actually doing it that it's just as misleading as what the original video in question is. Sorry for the rant........
I agree with RJ to a point and on some of the older equipment this holds true but I have been getting broad heads with field points without even really trying or compromising anything for quite some time now. I really don't broad head tune anymore. I just tune the bow and they are together. Within reason of course. Equipment has a lot to do with it. For example, a rest that falls too early can be a pain.
I don't know about you, but I like to practice shooting throughout the season. Its nice if your broadheads hit where your field tips do so you don't have to aim 4 inches left while practicing with them. I cant find a good reason not to have your broadheads and fieltips hitting in the same spot and its not really that hard to get them to do so. Just moving your sight is the lazy way out.
How would you tune your bow to make both broadheads and field tips hit in the same spot? I have never ben able to shoot my broad heads at a target. so I don't know if the shoot different or not. I have a target bag and cant shoot my broadheads at it.
Well, first off you need to be able to shoot your broadheads to see where they hit. To be brutally honest, going hunting without doing so is just unethical IMO. If they don't hit in the same spot you will have to make very small adjustments to your rest to make them do so. Basically you move your rest in the opposite direction that your broadheads hit from your field tips. If your broadheads hit to the right of your fieldtips, you move your rest a tiny bit to the left.
Get yourself a broadhead target. Shoot 3 arrows with broadheads and 3 arrows with field tips. You'll likely notice a different point of impact. If you google the Easton Broadhead tuning guide it will then give you the next steps as far as what you need to do. It may be as simple as cranking the poundage up or down a touch or tweaking your rest 1/16" in the necessary direction.
Please don't shoot at an animal without tuning your bow to broadheads! Your just asking for trouble. If you can't afford to buy a broadhead target go down to Home Depot and buy a bag of sand for a kids sand box. Just tape up the holes after each shot and the target will last plenty long enough to sight in with broadheads.
Here comes the hate, but this is exactly why I shoot mechanical heads. If I tune my bow reasonably well, and make sure my paper tune is good, my mechanical heads always hit spot on with my field points. With fixed heads, sometimes they do, but often they do not. I don't need the additional headache of trying to broadhead tune for fixed heads, I find it unnecessary given the high quality mechanical heads available today.
I can't disagree with you on this one. That was my mentality for a few years and it worked well for me.
I personally see nothing wrong with this. However there's far too many people who leave out this part. Without at least a decent tune on your bow your mechanicals will not fly properly and may impact the target at at off angle, greatly decreasing penetration. The fact that mechanicals can fly like field points has allowed people to get sloppy. I'm going back to fixed blades for this year and with two very minor adjustments to my rest after paper tuning my bow I had them hitting with my field points. No "additional headache" required.
I'm like tfox, I don't broadhead tune anymore either. With some help of tfox and Hutch. I tune my bows pretty much like tfox does. Of course after a few PM's back forth and with some of his help....lol. My Swhackers, Muzzy Mx3's Magnus, and field points all hit the same within reason.
Well I'll be taking up sides with Larry and Rick (Matt) on this subject. My hunting bow is broadhead tuned I don't care where a field point hits, why would I detune my hunting bow to shoot field points so they hit with broadheads?
