Greetings ya'll, I've wondered this for a bit now N I figured this would be the place to get my answer. What's the difference in performance between single and double cams? Someone told me double cams are harder to tune..is this true? is this the only difference? My fiance gifted me my bow for Christmas last year. I have a double cam. Neither one of us new about bows & she surprised me with it. I'd appreciate the feedback.
Dual cams can sometimes be a pain to tune because you want the top and bottom cams to mirror images of one another, rolling over at the same time and hitting the back wall at the same time. I personally haven't had any real big problems setting them up. The worst I think to tune are cam 1/2 like Hoyt has, but once you get them set there ain't nothing better!
Appreciate the input. You'll have to pardon my ignorance on the subject but what's a cam 1/2... Is that the same as a single cam?
Cam 1/2 is a hybrid system. The cams are synced to one another and only utilize one set of yokes as opposed to gaving 2 set of yokes like a true 2 cam. A hybrid has a string, control cable and buss cabe. 1 cam has an idler wheel on top with a one set of yokes and the string comes around and is also serves as a cable. The yokes are the cables that split to either side of the limbs. A binary system does not have any yokes for the most part and the cams are slaved to each other. This is the short of it. It is much more involved but this should give you an idea.
I love binary cams, feel of most of them, couple with the solid back wall of the limb stops...for someone like me that shoots off the wall and pulls through it...it's my favorite. No problem tuning them either... Now a hybrid doenst float my boat....but I can tune em easy too... I won't even go into a single cam bow...they are the bottom of ladder.
I have to disagree. There are no yokes on Bowtech's for instance, so no yoke tuning is involved which is a big step in tuning a Hoyt. The whole idea behind the binary cam is synchronization, so everything should hit in the exact same spot every time. Maybe it's just me but I know I can setup a binary cam bow in 15 minutes.
Ok, I'll have to disagree with you for several reasons. 1. Yoke tuning a bow for center shot is a far easier method than tuning center shot on a binary cam bow. Achieving true center shot on a slave cam bow can be nearly impossible without a ton of planning and playing. 2. Yoke tuning is not a big step, you can basically eye that one out. 3. How can any one bow company be singled out for cam lean? Thats based of the yoke which is entirely separate from the bow itself. 4. Apparently you have never seen a Bowtech 82nd or 101st? Cam lean on those was absolutely atrocious. Hence why BT went to a double yoke system on their new bows.
Binaries are fine until they have lean or won't bareshaft or shoot clean paper with centershot correctly set, then they are a pain. Hybrid Set nock level to just barely above level with an arrow level. Advance top cam slightly for timing. Modified french tune for center, yoke tune for paper and you're done with a hybrid in most cases. Bareshaft and broadheads are tuned in most cases at this point. Maybe some fine tweaking at worst.
Well I use a laser to get me close to center shot I then walk back tune, which I would do for any bow. I never said that Bowtech's have no cam lean or cam lean free. It's nothing to put some shims on a cam. Of the Bows I have worked on I have found binary bows easiest to tune. As I stated above maybe I'm not doing something right. I've shot every single bow I have worked on, paper tuned, the whole nine yards. Never had a complaint from a customer and I've set mine up the same way. I have no complaints either.
The truth of that matter is right now bows are easier to tune them ever ...most solid designed bows then ever before.
Bukfvr Try my method on the next hybrid and you will understand why we claim it's so easy. I typically am able to tune in my garage. I just measure 13/16" out from inside the shelf for center to start. No need in a laser. Draw vertical line on target with a carpenter level and sight in as close as you can get to target and shoot at 20' or so and adjust rest to hit line. Work back and forth until perfect. (I use this on any bow for correct center shot) Then shoot the paper and adjust yoke to clean up paper. Tighten tear side yoke. Recheck center. Typically I'm still dead on but if there were significant adjustments, it might move. I already addressed timing. Slightly advance top and level to slightly above level nock point.
