I seem to recall a link to an article on here about setting your pins. I've looked through the sticky at the top of this forum, but didn't see the link to the article. Is the article posted here somewhere or am I mixing it up with something else?
I get that part. I have my twenty set, but need to set the others. I read that it is best to set the thirty first and then do the other pins.
Your right, first sight the housing with your top at whatever yards. And after that move just the individual pins below that. Do not mess with the top pin anymore.
WOuldn't it make sense to do them in order? you have a 20, go in 10 yard increments after that, most likely to 50, you can do whatever you want.... i'm not sure i'm following your question.......
This step-by-step says to set your thirty yard pin first and then set your other pins. » How to Sight In your Bow
I generally set my furthest pin first and work my way in, only because my hold is steadiest when I first start shooting. My 15yd pin I can set even if I get a bit tired and my hold is a bit shaky. But really, it just don't matter.
Only way to do it is to start at the top. Your top pin is your short yardage pin. Pace off whatever distance you want your short yardage pin set for (likely shooting distance of your shortest shot hunting stand), then work down your pins from there. Depending on what kind of a bow you are shooting you may only need to set three pins. Depending on what kind of bow and shooting situations, you may have seven pins to sight in. Start at the top from your shortest likely shooting distance and work down through your pins for whatever distance you want. Pin distance is up to the shooter, not up to instructions on some old thread.
Set your 20 first..."aim small, miss small" is similar to "aim close, miss small" it's easier to make a quality, accurate shot at the short distance...therefore you can dial what it's doing in more accurately because there is less variance due to form issues...much easier to set windage properly on an easier shot...much easier to be able to eliminate random variables at a shorter shot. Once 20 is in, windage is done and move on to 30, then 40.
Setting the 30 first makes sense, because it should help center the ring guard with the peep for easy target acquisition. After that, just move your individual pins.
Start at the top, setting each pin one at a time. Always remember to "Chase the Arrow"...if it's low, you lower the pin. If it's high, raise the pin up. Seems backwards, but it works
My son (11 YO) is shooting a Mission Craze but at a low draw weight, 25#'s. I have been attempting to set his pins for some time but I am having no luck. He's fairly accurate with using the site housing. So I've abandoned the site D.O.P.E. while he strengthens his draw weight. My question is, wouldn't it be more important to hold off until he can draw his hunting weight and then set the pins? My reasoning is that for the increased draw weight the pins change? Or am I off the mark (sorry for the pun)?
have him shoot from 5 to 10 yards until he builds up strength and works on consistency of form don't worry about pins or sighting a bow in until he is shooting like a repetitious machine.. This is what I did with my wife I didn't even set her sight till she was shooting 30# comfortably she now shoots 45#... As your son gets stronger and his form and anchor point are consistant then put the sight on and start adjusting but until he is shooting comfortably I would not worry about the sight..
Thank you. We'll keep working hard at the fundamentals. He loves shooting and it is great to have something we can both share.
