I see they have them listed for ACC's. Now are they referring to the arrow with the ACC unibushing removed? The ACC takes a G nock. I'm assuming they are removing the unibushing?
Rob here is what I was able to find
No Firenock can work properly when a Uni-Bushing is installed. All Firenock systems require multiple contact points on the inside wall of the arrow shaft. The Uni-Bushing system makes the multiple contact points impossible to achieve. If an arrow has a Uni-Bushing installed, the Uni-Bushing will need to be removed in order for the Firenock to work properly. Some people have tried to glue the circuit into the nock so that it would work in aluminum arrows, but the performance and results have been marginal at best. Thus we do not recommend that a Firenock system be installed in ANY arrow that has a Uni-Bushing system installed.
Firenock "E" style nock is what is needed to fit the A/C/C Pro Hunter arrow. A/C/C Pro Hunter all have an ID of 0.227"and an OD of 0.270", 0.275", 0.280, and 0.285" for 440, 390, 340 and 300 size respectively. With the factory uni-bushing installed, it is very easy to think that a Firenock "A" style will fit as the Easton "X" nock is about the same size. This is not the case, in order for Firenock to work properly, the Firenock unit must make no less than 3 full circumference contacts with the inside wall of the arrow shaft. The presence of a Uni-bushing makes it impossible for Firenock to work properly. The circuit will fly out from the nock when shot at any object; the entire unit will also not be able spin balance inside the shaft. These are the only immediate issues that had been observed. Therefore in order to use Firenock in the A/C/C Pro Hunters, the uni-bushing must be removed. Since the uni-bushing used in the Pro-Hunter is glued in with very strong black glue, forcing it out is close to impossible, and heating the shaft will cause separating of the aluminum from the carbon layer. This leads to the only obvious solution, to cut it out. After the X nock is removed, cut the shaft at 0.375"; or 0.9" including the nock. The uni-bushing from the very tip to where it ends is ~0.325" or ~0.260" sleeve with a ~0.070" collar, and the X nock is ~0.63". Square the shaft and your ACC Pro Hunter shaft is ready to accept a Firenock "E" nock. Please note that there may be a tiny bit of polycarbonate to shave off from the shaft when you push in the Firenock "E" style nock the very first time, this is normal and part of the "E" nock's multi-diameter/size fit design.
Firenock “G” series fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows?
With minor modification, the Firenock "GS" series nocks will fit Easton A/C/C 3-60/340 arrows. Use a razor blade and shave off the 8 ridges on the nock cylinder. By shaving these ridges off, you will reduce the Outer Diameter (OD) of the nock to 0.2405" which would allow the Firenock to make better contact with the interior wall of the arrow shaft.
Firenock “G” series fit Easton A/C/C 3-49/390, 3-39/440 and 3-28/500 and Epic/Excel arrows?
To fit a lighted nock inside any shaft, the presence of uni-bushing will be detrimental to the arrow flight. There one must remove the uni-bushing and fit the nock inside the arrow tubing. After the tests, we concluded that Firenock 'E' style nock can fit all the following sizes with no, or some modifications. Firenock 'E' style design is based on an oversized Firenock "A" style mould which has a cylinder of 0.2047". Now with the 12 ridges being 0.0129" high each, it can easily be shaved to fit. Size as follows:
Epic/Excel has an inside diameter of 0.232" or 5.92mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-49/390 has an inside diameter of 0.230" or 5.86mm => No modification
A/C/C 3-39/440 has an inside diameter of 0.220" or 5.56mm =>Need to shave off half of al ridges to fit
A/C/C 3-28/500 has an inside diameter of 0.205" or 5.21mm => Shave off all ridges to form a tube of 0.2055
Just got a set of lumanoks for my birthday they work pretty good I shot an armadillo with one after dark last night all you could see is the nock running around the field it was awesome!
I make my own... have had great success with them, too. The only problem is I keep making them and giving them away to bowhunting friends who love them equally as much.
There's nothing like watching a tracer go through the pumphouse of big ol' deer!
Just finished making my first two of this year... both work flawlessly.
$1.97 for the battery in each one of 'em, and it takes two nocks to make one... so maybe another .50 or so for the whole enchilada.... pretty darn economical considering they work as well as anything I've seen commercially on the market.
Here ya go, Weed... this is the video I learned from. Can't make it any easier than this.
I have found that Super Glue GEL is the ticket for me when gluing the battery into the nock though.
Thanks Greg. Might have to give that a shot myself!
I think they're just a couple bucks at our Walmart? Maybe three tops?
It's been a while since I bought any... I stocked up the last time they got some in and bought about 10 batteries all at once because they only get them in seasonally.
1) Firenock "E" nock is only 5.3 grains by itself
2) The center alignment issue of the typical G nock is no longer an issue. 3) If a lighted nock is what you desires, with the Uni-bushing and G nock BOTH removed, you are actually only adding about 9 grains to your current setting instead of the usual 17 grains. Which do not do much with the FOC too.
4) Firenock E is significantly shorter than the "G" nock, which also help on FOC. 0.75" compare to 0.432" on the entire nock, to start with while the throat of the nock is ~0.45" compare to Firenock "E"'s ~0.15" which is about 300% closer to the shaft. Think energy transfer and nock flex!
The Firenock "A" nock for FMJ and Firenock "E" nock for the ACC 349/339/328 are the same circuit. The nock is the only difference.
Pictures Firenock "A" and "E" below for your reference