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Thread: Tuning

  1. #16
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    Feb 2014
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    I agree with above. Since I don't have a bow press I usually have the shop put my rest on and get the centershot close. Then I do walkback tuning/French tuning, and then broadhead tune. There is lots of other things you can do as well.

    As mentioned above. Youtube is awesome when it comes to this stuff.
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  2. #17
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    I just bought a Bowmaster portable G2 press and split limb brackets on Amazon for about $60. I needed to install a drop away rest and a peep sight and that worked perfectly. I suspect a shop would have charged me about $30 to do the work, but when it is time to change strings I will definitely earn my money back. I was a little skeptical, but it works great.
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  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by tkaldahl2000 View Post
    I just bought a Bowmaster portable G2 press and split limb brackets on Amazon for about $60. I needed to install a drop away rest and a peep sight and that worked perfectly. I suspect a shop would have charged me about $30 to do the work, but when it is time to change strings I will definitely earn my money back. I was a little skeptical, but it works great.
    That's a great start. I see you are shooting a binary cam bow - I shoot an older Quest bow that has binaries too. In my experience I would not be able to fully set up my bow without a draw board and a scale. A chronograph can be useful too, but is not necessary unless you want to get every ounce of power out of your bow.

    Even though binary cams theoretically slave to each other, and thus they should not get out of sync, they can be set up out of sync (think about if one of the slave cables is significantly longer then the other...). You need a drawboard to slowly rotate the cams and make sure they are in sync when installing new string/cables. Once they are set up in sync mine have done a great job of staying that way.

    If your cams are anything like mine they will have mechanical stops that need to be set at the correct let-off to determine the end of the draw. A scale (along with a drawboard) lets you watch the draw poundage increase, then decrease, until it reaches the desired let-off. The stops on both cams need to be adjusted to hit simultaneously, and at the point where the desired let-off is achieved. You'll need a draw board to do this, as well as a scale set up to measure draw poundage.

    A chrono isn't necessary, but does help further tune the setup by allowing you to measure the bow's output at different point in the cam's rotation. This can be adjusted by changing both slave cables simultaneously, which results in the use a different portion of the cam's rotation during draw and release. I don't believe it will make your bow any more accurate, but it does get your bow shooting as efficiently as possible. If you decide to do this make sure you keep an eye on cam lean.
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  4. #19
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    Aug 2014
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    You can teach yourself to do most of it. If you want someone else to do it, we charge $5 for general tuning which will get you from scratch to paper tuned. Hardly anyone wants to take the time to fully tune their bows past the basic paper even though I recommend it to everyone.
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