NAP Killzone - Do I need the Low KE version?

Discussion in 'Bowhunting Talk' started by Bow Duke, Jan 17, 2016.

  1. Bow Duke

    Bow Duke Weekend Warrior

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    I shoot a Halon 6 (28.5" DL) at 62lbs with Carbon Express Maxima Reds with a total weight (assuming 125 grain tip) of 405 grains.

    Should I be opting for the "Low KE" version of the NAP Killzones or the regular Killzones?
     
  2. Heckler

    Heckler Grizzled Veteran

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    No! You don't need the Low KE version.
     
  3. ShaneB22

    ShaneB22 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    If I can shoot through a doe's shoulder and still got about 5"-6" of penetration into dirt with a 1 3/4" 3 blade then you should be fine with a 2" 2 blade. I have a short draw but with my setup I can get about 295 fps with a 391 grain arrow. Some people say different but I say go for it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2016
  4. kurveball18

    kurveball18 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Shot placement.....shot placement.....shot placement.....
     
  5. ybohunt

    ybohunt Die Hard Bowhunter

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    IMO you dont need them but if you want more penetration you could get them anyhow.
     
  6. elkguide

    elkguide Grizzled Veteran

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    Whichever makes you more confident. Both will do the job if put in the right place.
     
  7. kurveball18

    kurveball18 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I agree 100%. I find it funny that my last post just above yours got a Dislike on it. Really? The main thing is putting your shot where it is suppose to go! Some people I tell ya.
     
  8. elkguide

    elkguide Grizzled Veteran

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    Go figure?????
     
  9. Bow Duke

    Bow Duke Weekend Warrior

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    That pretty much holds true for every projectile, broadhead, bullet, or rock, I suppose.

    I guess I was under the impression that the "Low KE" version was mechanically different (i.e. lower closure retention force) compared to the regular Killzone version. The problem is that NAP never quantifies what it means by "Low KE". Heck, is 25 ft.lbs. "low"? or even 50 ft.lbs "low"? Or, is this simply a 1-3/4" version vs. a 2" version?

    I just wasn't sure if I was in the "Low KE" camp shooting a 28.5" 60# Halon with 400gr arrows or not.
     
  10. elkguide

    elkguide Grizzled Veteran

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    I shoot a 28.5" - 60# Strother or K&K but I only shoot fixed blade heads and animals fall over with my set up.
    Never shot the NAP's to give you any feedback.
     
  11. kurveball18

    kurveball18 Die Hard Bowhunter

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    From what I can tell, the low ke versions they have slightly shorter blades but put them at a more swept back angle.
     
  12. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    Answering a technical question about a BH with "shot placement" justified a dislike. Well Dua! Great insight telling him he needs to hit the deer in the right spot.
     
  13. BJE80

    BJE80 Legendary Woodsman

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    Ding Ding Ding.............
     
  14. lgreenslade3

    lgreenslade3 Weekend Warrior

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    If you're concerned about it, they have cut on contact killzones
     
  15. MAD 6

    MAD 6 Weekend Warrior

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    i don't think your in the Low KE camp shooting 60lbs 28.5" DL, I believed the Low KE broad heads were for the 45-50lb
    and under a 27" shooters. I have been shooting the c.o.c Killzones with your same specs and have had no problems with them opening or penetrating.
     
  16. cole62895

    cole62895 Weekend Warrior

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    I shoot the same set-up in a Heli-m, half a dozen deer have fallen to a Killzone so far with all but one that was quartering away a little steep being a clean pass through. You should be absolutely fine with that set up.
     
  17. Dubbya

    Dubbya Moderator

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    The only difference between the KZ and KZ Low KE is.......... THE CUTTING DIAMETER. 1/4" is the only difference, 1/8" on each side.

    I was shooting a 72lb HTR with a 470gr arrow and I opted for the Low KE. I shot lots of animals with my 72lb Chill and 464gr arrow and never had a pass-thru with the KZ.

    Here are my thoughts...

    1. If you compare the holes between the two... You'll never notice a distance
    2. Low KE's do penetrate better, that's simple physics.
    3. Any broadhead that goes through lungs or heart will work. Personally, I don't buy a broadhead to kill the animal when I shoot it in the lungs, my field tips will do that. I buy a broadhead that gives me the best chance of recovery when I make a bad shot. Recovery is more likely when you have a blood trail, bad shots (especially from tree stands) may have a higher entrance wound (which doesn't bleed much) and may be plugged with digestive organs. In 99% of these cases, I would take an exit hole over a 1/4" larger entrance hole.
    4. If you want the best of both worlds, shoot spitfire Maxx or spitfire XXX. Better penetration, same size holes and 3 blades for more cutting surface.

    Good luck!
     
  18. Bow Duke

    Bow Duke Weekend Warrior

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    Thanks, guys! That information was/is VERY helpful.
     
  19. cantexian

    cantexian Grizzled Veteran

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    Hallelujah! A civil and informative broadhead thread! Points, counter-points, information and discussion, this was by far the best broadhead thread I have read on here. Great information on KE Broadheads Dubbya. I had not considered those points before. Good luck Bow Duke.
     
  20. fletch920

    fletch920 Grizzled Veteran

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    What kind of dirt is that? I couldn't get 7 inches of penetration into the ground with an 80lb bow shooting a 500 grain arrow from three feet up. That's without passing through a deer. Did it happen to pass through a couple of steel barrels also?
     

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