Am I the only one who has never paper tuned their bow? Should I? If im shooting fine out to 50-60yrds I guess I don't see the point.
When I drop it off to get it tuned it gets paper tuned, but I always get the bow tuned before hunting season.
I could be wrong here but having the bow paper tuned by someone else is not good enough, you have to be the one shooting it as the bow should be tuned to your grip. For years when I was young I committed the sin, shot mechanicals because my bow was not tuned(way back in the flipper rest glued to the riser days!) I did fine, but once I got a drop away rest and learned how to paper tune, I was floored as to just how much better penetration I got with a properly paper tuned bow.
I broadhead tune only. If my field tips and broadheads hit together at 60yds, I feel I'm in tune. I 3D and hunt with the same arrows just change the head. If I don't have to change anything to do that, what else do I need.
Tuning your bow isn't just about accuracy. You may be able to hit the same place twice. But if you arrow isn't flying true it could impact penetration.
I agree, I let the shop paper tune it for me and get the rest close. Then I usually do a modified french tune to fine tune my rest so my arrows arent drifting to one side or the other as I increase distance. Doing this really makes my broadhead tuning easy later in the season.
In my 40 years of bowhunting I can only remember shooting thru paper once, about 10 years ago. One day my BH hit 6" right of FP at 20 yards. No matter what I did I couldn't get BH and FP to hit the same. It turned out I had a cracked limb in the limb pocket.
I am not sure why so many people are against tuning their bows. Not for hunting? That is much more important than shooting at paper, you want your arrow flying as perfectly as you can when shooting at game. I do not paper tune but I do bareshaft (walkback from 5 to 20) and broadhead tune. I want to go into the woods with the most confidence as I can in my setup. I practice year round to stay proficient, why would I risk shooting a poorly tuned setup after all that shooting?
I may use paper tuning on a new to me bow after an initial setup. Bareshaft or any other distance tuning trumps paper any day. I'm not happy until I can get bareshaft's to hit perfect out to 30 yds. Only other use I have for paper is nock indexing a new set of arrows.
I 100% agree, but when I broadhead tune I can see how the arrow enters the target as well. If my FT and BH has the same POI but my BH is point right and nock left I know there's a tear there. I don't want my arrows to go into the deer sideways either, even if they hit the spot I'm aiming. Maybe I should have stated earlier that when I BH tune I'm not just concerned with POI. I don't think anything posted here is wrong, we just use different ways to get the same info.
Never paper tune. Bareshaft only. But I have only been doing this for 40 years and do not mess with what works. Maybe it's because I am a southpaw.
I paper tune every year just to keep it in check. Never know when you hit your rest during season that could mess up a shot on a giant. Never hurts to be too careful Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Bowhunting.com Forums mobile app
paper tuning is just a starting point. i prefer bareshalft tuning. feildpoint and fix board heads will hit the same.
I paper tune only with a bareshaft out to 10 yards. Then I verify bareshaft and fletched are hitting same POI out to 20-30 yards
I don't like it when people post with quotes for emphasis but I feel compelled. No doubt you have had success in the field. Thing is I believe I owe it to every animal I want to kill to give them as humane a death as possible. Proper tuning will give you shorter blood trails and quicker kills. It is clearly not necessary to be successful but I truly believe it makes a difference at longer yardage and can also help with shorter trailing and cleaner kills. OP you aren't the only one not tuning this way but I wish everybody would.
