What's your take on 55lb draw using mechanical BH at 40-50 yards? maybe 60? Is that cutting it close? Bow is currently 60lbs can draw no problem but 55 is butter...Obviously don't want to draw more than I have to and I defintely do not want to injure an animal without a clean kill... ATA/IBO 355/347 on bow
I personally wouldn't do it, ever. Sounds like a good way to wound an animal. A lot can happen while your arrow travels 60 yards. I wouldn't shoot a mechanical head drawing 55 pounds period...regardless of the distance of the shot, that's too light for me. ATA of 355? What does that mean? IBO matters very little when your talking about slinging an arrow 60 yards at live game. Giving us your finished arrow weight, draw length, and fps of your hunting arrow would be much more beneficial. Good luck out there.
Terry and Mark Drury do it all the time so depending on arrow weight I would say yes and no. If it's a decent weight like about 430 grains or more I would say go for it. Other people have different opinions but this is mine
I agree with others I would be very nervous shooting a mechanical at that weight, a good coc blade would be better (or at least would make me feel better).
I never chrono bow, but ot2 reads 265 fps arrow weight 410 grains (confirmed by scale) K/E on release 63.9 this is at 60lbs FYI... DL is 27
With your short draw I would say maybe. You could try the smaller cut rage I can't remember the name off hand. I know a guy who shot a doe with them and he was using a 55lb no cam and arrows lighter than yours. When he shot her the arrow got lodged in her off shoulder but she didn't go too far. You're putting out more speed, ke, and momentum than he was so I guess you should be fine.
That's kinda what I mean.. I plugged in the stinger x at 70lbs and same variables mine at 60 still has more k/e, fps, momentum... More and more I read, more I may be better off bumping to 65lbs.
I wouldn't be comfortable taking a 60 yard shot with a bow ever. Regardless of hitting a bag at 60-80 yards practicing, when you put a target that can move out that far 60 yards is definitely just asking to wound a deer but I'm not an eagle eye I suppose.
It all depends on your arrow weight and set up, I wouldnt think twice about taking a 60 yard shot, I know my bow, sight is right and I trust my ability.
I say shoot the weight you like and act like a bowhunter, not a gun hunter, and stop thinking about such long shots .
In what circumstance would you need to take a 60yd shot while hunting deer...? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
60 yards is a long shot on an animal that can take two steps before your arrow gets to them. I would be much more comfortable with a fixed blade head. The newer mechanicals are better and more consistent but a fixed blade never fails to open.
I have no experience shooting those distances, however, I would question the reasoning behind it with that sort of set up. I mean no disrespect, I just wonder why you would choose that head at that low poundage to shoot long range.
Would I personally take a shot at 60...nope absolutely not.The main reason that I Bowhunt is because you have to get close,and IMO 60 yds isn't very close. Now would you be OK shooting that far with a fixed head?maybe you would maybe you wouldn't. Would I shoot a mechanical with 55 pounds,nope absolutely not. I'm shooting 55 myself but with a fixed blade.So far the two deer I've shot have both been complete pass though with the deer expiring in about 60yds.
A few years ago, I used to shoot a similar set up to you: 55 lbs, 27" draw, 425 grain arrows. I lost two deer after the Rage's failed to deploy the blades. Found the arrows, it was like shooting the deer with field points. Absolutely no blood trail. Both of my shots were under 20 yards. I would not shoot a deer with a mechanical at 60 yards with this set up. Despite shooting both through the lungs and getting pass-through, they both ran more than 250 yards. Both deer were found a few days later when the vultures were circling. Neither deer bled externally. I learned a hard lesson that year. Personally, I would not trust a mechanical with this set up. I went to Slick Tricks with that set up the next season and the deer I shot died in sight.
Heres the thing, Most people pick their head on best case scenario. I hunted with the LOW KE rage this year called the Rage SS. I also have a very similar setup. 55 pounds, 27" draw, 392 grain Easton axis arrows. My Mathews No Cam was shooting them at 242 fps. In "most" cases if you as the hunter does the job as far as arrow placement then yes the arrow should penetrate enough to make a ethical kill. BUT, 60 yards at this setup does seem a bit too far so I/myself would not take that shot. I feel my max distance would be right around that 35-40 yards and that is highly unlikely in the areas that I hunt. The best way to look at things is to pick the best broad head for your setup to give you the best results in the "not so great shot placement". I most likely will be switching broadheads this next year and going to either a Slick Trick or QAD Exodus. I feel at our poundages the fixed head is the way to go.
For me, not a question of if I should take that sort of shot, it's more of I'll only take it If I'm certain my setup is on par for it, and right now, I don't believe 60lbs (let alone 55lbs) is enough unless I went with a fixed blade or a low KE mechanical. 60 yards isn't really that far.. the travel time for an arrow between 40 yards and 60 yards is almost nil. Talking like a 20th of a second difference.
I agree, but for most people the point is that bowhunting is suppose to be a close range sport. 40 yards and less in 99% of most cases. Yes I do understand out west a lot of people practice for the longer shots as Elk and Mule deer hunting you have to be ready for that 50-60 yard shot if that is the only shot that presents itself. If you do that type of hunting then you have to have the horsepower to back it up. In this case, neither of us do.
